turbo help!!!

[iceman]

dont worry about it mate , drop by one day and i will show you some hardware

[Ef_frmnt]

notcalaisturbodotcom.gif

[pHaT`eL]

I bought my Snort manifold second hand, never cracked? *shrugs*

[iceman]

all turbo manifolds will fail over time in one way or another , material used and wall thickness will enhance the durability but in the end the heat cycling will soon take its toll

[MMD]

all turbo manifolds will fail over time in one way or another , material used and wall thickness will enhance the durability but in the end the heat cycling will soon take its toll

Does ceramic coating increase the durability/life of the manifolds?

[iceman]

not sure mate but they advertise it will help provide heat protection and fatigue??

i have my doubts how effective it really can be , just the other day i got burnt crispy style when my had simple brushed passed a dump pipe ( car was just started to ensure turbo install was all ok ) then switched off prob 5 mins

i had been told that with the ceramic coating one could grab the exhaust with there bare hand 5 min after an engine was shut down ( bullshit in my experience ) and this was not even at full operating temp

[Dansedgli]

haha yeah that doesnt work.

It keeps the heat down but you will still get burnt. Maybe on an NA car it works like that?

[Ef_frmnt]

I changed an engine mount bolt on a blown Camaro with coated pipes laying on my back on the side of the road. I have the burns/scars to prove it.... they do drop the engine bay temp SLIGHTLY but they will not stop the pipe from getting abso-fucking-lutely blisteringly hot. The extreme black stuff is better, most guys just want it coated for the look now so stick with the shiny one.

[Mr. CVE]

The thing is the shiney one goes dull if you make some serious power, so there goes the bling !!

but I believe it will stop then or prevent them from rusting.

[Dansedgli]

I got mine done in black. Better but not awesome.

[EBOOST]

Yeah I had the extractors on my first ed coated and got burnt after the car running for not even a minute.

[sec]

You know what would be good if you had to cars side by side same manifold and bought them both up to operating temp one not coated one ceramic coated and took a reading to see just how much the temp did drop.

As to burning yer I know what you are saying been there done that exercise.

Just to slip away from the actual gist of this thread anyone got and though on the turbo beanies, I have been told they are the ducks nits and then they are rubbish and cause turbo housing failures. ... Also the help the turbo to spool quicker.

Cheers

[67rce]

You know what would be good if you had to cars side by side same manifold and bought them both up to operating temp one not coated one ceramic coated and took a reading to see just how much the temp did drop.

As to burning yer I know what you are saying been there done that exercise.

Just to slip away from the actual gist of this thread anyone got and though on the turbo beanies, I have been told they are the ducks nits and then they are rubbish and cause turbo housing failures. ... Also the help the turbo to spool quicker.

Cheers

There is only so much a thin coating can do when your talking about a 650-700° turbo housing/gate pipe/ dump pipe. It reduces how effectively the pipe can dissipate heat, bit will no do too much in the scheme of things.

[EFFalcon]

even the AIT cast manifolds have been known to crack

[Dansedgli]

20 years later.

[iceman]

not really dan , i have been asked to repair the older cast manifolds since i first started out

the older ait cast was lower grade iron , the newer cast manifolds like on the ba turbo are cast s/steel ( i have seen only 1 crack so far and unsure what conditions caused it )

blocked cats , bad tune, excessive dyno time , ect are all factors that can put extra stresses on the hardware

[TUFED6]

Heat wrap is your best bet for keeping temps down. Unfortunately it takes its toll on the material you are wrapping.

[sec]

Heat wrap is your best bet for keeping temps down. Unfortunately it takes its toll on the material you are wrapping.

No win situation isn't it really.

So I suppose you have to sum up which is the more needed, heat protection and eventual part failure or suffer the head issues and longer life of the part concerned.

You got a 20 cent coin

[iceman]

yes heat wrap can be damn evil to components , have you ever wrapped a mild steel manifold with the stuff and then remove it 12 months later? descaling cracking usually results ( in extreme conditions )

heatwrap is more for racing purposes and in most cases we use it to wrap the component we are trying to protect not the manifold/dump pipe , in racing applications they are not so interested in longevity of components its more about time/power and in these cases its more commonly used

the turbo beanies can be also evil , in my experience you reduce the component life by up to 50% ( cracking exhaust housings , over heat the core ) when switched off the oil sits on the turbo shaft and burns ( carbon ) then builds up on the shaft and it then chews through the turbo seals/bearings , garret ball bearing turbochargers have a plastic stlye retaining cage for the s/steel balls when overheated the cage fails and so does the turbocharger

on ba falcons the turbocharger usually fails because of a blocked oil feed line again caused when ford made the feed line from metal then proceeded to run it over the top of the manifold !!

[NUT347]

Ford turbos fail because the filter on the side of the engine blocks up and it's non serviceable.

[sec]

yes heat wrap can be damn evil to components , have you ever wrapped a mild steel manifold with the stuff and then remove it 12 months later? descaling cracking usually results ( in extreme conditions )

heatwrap is more for racing purposes and in most cases we use it to wrap the component we are trying to protect not the manifold/dump pipe , in racing applications they are not so interested in longevity of components its more about time/power and in these cases its more commonly used

the turbo beanies can be also evil , in my experience you reduce the component life by up to 50% ( cracking exhaust housings , over heat the core ) when switched off the oil sits on the turbo shaft and burns ( carbon ) then builds up on the shaft and it then chews through the turbo seals/bearings , garret ball bearing turbochargers have a plastic stlye retaining cage for the s/steel balls when overheated the cage fails and so does the turbocharger

on ba falcons the turbocharger usually fails because of a blocked oil feed line again caused when ford made the feed line from metal then proceeded to run it over the top of the manifold !!

With the beanie fitted on a Garrett water cooled version concerning the cool down would it be better to use a timer and give it say 3 or 5 minutes at idle???
Shit you just reminded me to get a inline filter set up for our new turbo. (another $150 or so does it ever end)

Heat wrap yes I know it totally stuffs the dump pipe in 12 months but we reckon we can replace the dump every year and keep the heat down is a better way to go for us.

Hey thanks for the advice Iceman

[iceman]

Ford turbos fail because the filter on the side of the engine blocks up and it's non serviceable.

correct also but if you just change the filter you still have the chance of the turbo line also being blocked ( and it usually happens at the same time ) , when the oil filter slowly blocks it also reduced the oil flow in the metal line which again can bake itself on the inside of the line and either carbon deposits or blockage will result , its also the reason garret tell you to change the oil feed line when fitting a new turbocharger ( or it may void warranty )

[iceman]

yes heat wrap can be damn evil to components , have you ever wrapped a mild steel manifold with the stuff and then remove it 12 months later? descaling cracking usually results ( in extreme conditions )

heatwrap is more for racing purposes and in most cases we use it to wrap the component we are trying to protect not the manifold/dump pipe , in racing applications they are not so interested in longevity of components its more about time/power and in these cases its more commonly used

the turbo beanies can be also evil , in my experience you reduce the component life by up to 50% ( cracking exhaust housings , over heat the core ) when switched off the oil sits on the turbo shaft and burns ( carbon ) then builds up on the shaft and it then chews through the turbo seals/bearings , garret ball bearing turbochargers have a plastic stlye retaining cage for the s/steel balls when overheated the cage fails and so does the turbocharger

on ba falcons the turbocharger usually fails because of a blocked oil feed line again caused when ford made the feed line from metal then proceeded to run it over the top of the manifold !!

With the beanie fitted on a Garrett water cooled version concerning the cool down would it be better to use a timer and give it say 3 or 5 minutes at idle???
Shit you just reminded me to get a inline filter set up for our new turbo. (another $150 or so does it ever end)

Heat wrap yes I know it totally stuffs the dump pipe in 12 months but we reckon we can replace the dump every year and keep the heat down is a better way to go for us.

Hey thanks for the advice Iceman

welcome mate

[Rollin]

As iceman has said, wrapping the components surrounding the hot thing is better than wrapping the hot thing.

The ideal method for reducing heat is to allow as much airflow as possible around the components and to also use heat shielding - thin steel plates work well, proper layered heat shielding material works even better.

[ed40]

yes heat wrap can be damn evil to components , have you ever wrapped a mild steel manifold with the stuff and then remove it 12 months later? descaling cracking usually results ( in extreme conditions )

heatwrap is more for racing purposes and in most cases we use it to wrap the component we are trying to protect not the manifold/dump pipe , in racing applications they are not so interested in longevity of components its more about time/power and in these cases its more commonly used

the turbo beanies can be also evil , in my experience you reduce the component life by up to 50% ( cracking exhaust housings , over heat the core ) when switched off the oil sits on the turbo shaft and burns ( carbon ) then builds up on the shaft and it then chews through the turbo seals/bearings , garret ball bearing turbochargers have a plastic stlye retaining cage for the s/steel balls when overheated the cage fails and so does the turbocharger

on ba falcons the turbocharger usually fails because of a blocked oil feed line again caused when ford made the feed line from metal then proceeded to run it over the top of the manifold !!

With the beanie fitted on a Garrett water cooled version concerning the cool down would it be better to use a timer and give it say 3 or 5 minutes at idle???
Shit you just reminded me to get a inline filter set up for our new turbo. (another $150 or so does it ever end)

Heat wrap yes I know it totally stuffs the dump pipe in 12 months but we reckon we can replace the dump every year and keep the heat down is a better way to go for us.

Hey thanks for the advice Iceman

Turbo timers are an absolute waste of time, money and weight.
A much better alternative to a turbo timer is to drive the car off boost and don't thrash it a few minutes before you park it up. The turbo isn't producing much heat when it is off boost plus it has the ram airflow cooling it down as you drive. Sitting there parked up for 5 minutes is only just going to heat the turbo up more.

[Rollin]

I've also got an override switch on the fans on Gloria (the ED had one too, back when it was on the road/Jesus was a boy) so I always do what ed40 suggested (because he is a mad **** and knows shit) but I hit the fans as well, it takes a few extra degrees out of the coolant just before I park the car.

[67rce]

yes heat wrap can be damn evil to components , have you ever wrapped a mild steel manifold with the stuff and then remove it 12 months later? descaling cracking usually results ( in extreme conditions )

heatwrap is more for racing purposes and in most cases we use it to wrap the component we are trying to protect not the manifold/dump pipe , in racing applications they are not so interested in longevity of components its more about time/power and in these cases its more commonly used

My dump pipe is heat wrapped, but it was ceramic coated first. It's been out of a car for ~1yr now, no issues.