Boosted Falcon

new here, so hello all !

i have just bought a 1992 EB II fairmont wagon. its a 5.0 v8 auto. from what i can gather, all these had a LSD.
its actually a beat up old thing, but i wish to make it at least reliable and feel like its a v8 !

i have managed to sort out most of its problems thanks to posts on this forum and others, but a couple have me stumped.

firstly, it feels a bit gutless when accellerating from a standstill. i know with the LSD it won't want to spin a wheel, but shouldn't it grip up and accelerate ? i had a feeling i read about a ' resistor trick' that fixes this, but can't find it again. any ideas ?

secondly, theres a blow type oil leak coming out the dipstick. again, from posts i think its the PCV. i cant see it, but from what i read it is on the back if the block, hidden / sandwiched between block , manifold and firewall. does this sound right? and do i need to remove the manifold to fix it ?

SEE POST FURTHER DOWN FOR RESOLUTION

thanks in advance for any replys, and thanks for the informative forum.

i can solve the 1st question. its a stock 5.0lt wagon. its slow.

thanks sterling for your keen observation.

i have followed your advice on the problem by removing all the ford badges. i couldnt get the ford logo off the steering wheel, so i replaced the entire steering wheel with one that has a momo logo on it. do you think that will now do the trick, or should i go the whole hog and put holden badges on the car for maximum performance ?

and, any advice on Q2, like, ' drill speed holes in the manifold ' ?? if so, please advise what size holes.

Speed holes in manifolds wont work, they will need to be in the bonnet for them to work

Thanks for your response nosi,
im unsure why you taking your ford badges off? If we refer to my op I clearly said "stock 5 ltr wagon"
no where in that post did I say "Ford". Therfore I ment any 5 ltr wagon.
As for your second question I would not recomend speed holes in the manifold as that would decrease perfomance.

My 5.slo wagon is slow on take off too.. Its just what happens

1. no resistor trick. they are just gutless.
give it a better exhaust, bigger maf and better diff ratio and ya will notice a big difference.

2. pcv valve. if you put your hand down the back of the intake manifold there is an about 1inch diameter pipe. pull it. it i will probably pull the pcv valve out.

it goes into the to the top rear of the lower intake manifold.

i got a 5.0 au3 and its the slowest car ive owned.they just shit really mate.

point noted re ford badges, couldn't help myself. ( did fit a momo though )

in regards to pcv, i got it out but it was clean. removed grommet bit with some difficulty, but could not remove the flame arrestor, which was totally blocked.
heres the tricky bit, i just left it blocked and re-routed the pcv to a different location. i will get an inline flame arrestor ( volvo have them ).
also, point to note, the pcv and grommet happen to just fit into the oil filler tube, with help from race tape and safety zip ties. ( i will make it a bit neater later )
problem solved and future maintainance made easy.

the acceleration problem i will either have to live with or throw $ at. ( my vs v6 crapadore is faster off the line )
thanks again.

PROBLEMS RESOLVED-
as noted i just bought this car, so i didn't know what the previous owner had done, but, i am sure thay had low power, excess fuel usage and oil consumption.
the things i did were-
put in correct grade good quality engine oil.
fixed blocked pcv valve
cleaned MAF with circuit borad cleaner
replaced incorrect thermostat ( 82 deg ) with correct 92 deg one.

now power feels right, no oil blow, and should be correct fuel usage.
i did these one at a time, and the biggest individual improvement was the thermostat.

next item will be to check / replace fuel pump, as i am not confident in the current one, then a twin exhaust system ( cat back ) just for the v8 sound.

If its an auto you can adjust the t.p.s sensor to .98volts, it should make it feel a little more spritely with throttle applications.

The biggest difference to my old ebxr8 was changing from 3.27 rear gear to 3.91 and it was a vast improvement off the mark.

Theres a few cheap mods you can do such as
phenolic spacer
elgt snorkel
au maf housing

Then theres more expensive items like 1.7 yt roller rockers, hi stall, 3.91 diff gears, and a full exhaust system.

If you had money to throw at it id recomend forced induction over the other shit i just typed.