Boosted Falcon

anyone have any idea of how to remove rounded head bolts =[
ive tried belting a 13m no chance of getting that on

i just hit the bolt with a hammer and mushroomed the head of it pretty decent. then hammered a 13mm socket and it came off with about 5ft of breaker bar lol.

cheers corey

Single hex head socket.

ROFL, i'll give the hex socket a go first then the bashing with the hammer lol

take off the rocker gear and use a file to shape the bolt head into a single hex shape then using a smaller single hex socket and breaker bar should work, otherwise buy your self some 1mm thick cut off wheels for a grinder and cut the top off the bolt but be care not to cut the head.

It's better to get the bolt out because it's a cut to get the head off if you cut the top off it.

lol i was thinking of grinding it off but got scared i might **** up the head

at work i had the same problem i just got a nut the same size as the head bolt, mig'd it on the stud then cracked it with a massive breaker bar

mig'd another term for weld?

thatd be the one

lol was thinking of drilling a whole straight through the side n sticking a pole or someshit in it n twist?

wouldnt be strong enough
best bet is to use a grinder to shape the bolt, or if you can spare one, weld a socket straight to the bolt.

yeah mig welder

try an imperial socket, smash it on with a hammer

use good quallity sockets like kincrome or snap on

not cheap shi they will break and wont shape the bolt

hmm think i might take the idea of welding shit cheap sockets on em i got all sidchrome tools

Gouge it off with a plasma cutter .... if you have one around that is lol, 30 seconds tops and not crazy like a angle grinder.

success lmfao grinded it off bad news grinded a bit of the head too where the bolt sits

thats okay as long as its not to much or to deep.

cheers corey

yeah should be sweet. if its bad maybe put a thin washer in there.
just make sure you pay attention when you put the new bolt in due to the fantastic method of '35nm and then 90 degrees' lol
i can never seem to get that shit right

I have 2 methods.
1/ Arc weld an old socket on, make sure you protect everything under the rocker cover as the welding flash can damage things.
2/ Get out the small electric grinder and grind off the bolt head without cutting into the aluminum head, slowly is the way its done. The head should lift straight up and off, use vice grips to remove the stud left on the block.

i had a stuck rocker bolt yesterday and smashed a 3/8 socket over the top, so that can work well also, just have to get the sizing right.

i do my ford head bolts 30nm, then 60nm, then 100nm. haven't had one **** up yet and it's shite loads easier then trying frauds way.

that works fine if you are using an assembly lube on the thread and the bolt hole is clean, but the angle measurement is designed to make sure the bolt is stretched the right amount, taking out any error in the torque that might occur from the thread grabbing tighter on some bolts.

i smear some oil under the head bolt heads and some on its mating surface on the head. when its time to get the torque wrench out i go straight to 102Nm straight off the bat starting in the middle and work my way out to the ends

CaRtZ wrote:i smear some oil under the head bolt heads and some on its mating surface on the head. when its time to get the torque wrench out i go straight to 102Nm straight off the bat starting in the middle and work my way out to the ends

2. INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS
HINT:

The cylinder head bolts are tightened in 2 progressive
steps (steps (c) and (f)).

If any of bolts break or deform, replace them.
(a) Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under
the heads of the cylinder head bolts.
(b) Install the 14 plate washers to each cylinder head bolt.
(c) Using a 10 mm bi–hexagon wrench, uniformly tighten the
cylinder head bolts, in several passes, in the sequence
shown.
Torque: 35 N·m (350 kgf·cm, 26 ft·lbf)
If any of the bolts do not meet the torque specification, replace
the bolt.


(d) Mark the front of the cylinder head bolt head with paint.
(e) Retighten the cylinder head bolts by 90° in the numerical
order shown in the illustration on previous page.
(f) Retighten cylinder head bolts by an additional 90° shown
in the illustration on previous page.
(g) Check that the painted mark is now turned to the rear.

i tighten them down startin in the middle then torque. when u add up the sequence it = 102 Nm replace studs every time and use a single hex impact socket. never had a stuff up or one come back (i've done quite a few)

good for you, but torque + angle is a better way of getting the correct clamping force.

Steady wrote:good for you, but torque + angle is a better way of getting the correct clamping force.

no way man 102nm straight up FTW !!

Toyota says 35nm + 90 deg then 90 deg, in inclined to go with torque + angle method ..

The reason they give a low torque spec and then a degree value is because the friction between the head bolts and the head/block is not necessarily the same for each bolt.

102Nm with a perfectly shaped bolt thread and block, lubricated nicely with oil and with a smooth head-to-underside-of-bolt surface will have a lot more tension than 102Nm with a dodgy bolt and slightly rusted block thread.


Low toque plus degree value gives a much more even clamp load across the head.