Boosted Falcon

went to start car, no go. did the 30min reset on smartlock car starts, turn off an back to the no go , am having to do the 30min reset if want to use car..... not cool. No nothing about the electronics ....... so can i replace smartlock with another? if so does it require reseting or coding? an how? or is there a way of buy passing the smartlock?
any help appreciated cheers

did you hit the dash just above your left nee? probably a faulty smartlock module.

all of that has been tried, was in at local garage for 3 weeks..................they where useless couldnt get it going , bought it home did the reset an it started, but will only start if do the reset each time. know where i can get another smartlock but want to know if it can be swapped out with out causing bigger issues, b4 i do so

Do a search on here, I think someone does a bypass for them, or pull the module out and solder the 2 wires that are the same together and leave the module in there, I think that is what most people do.

Did you replace the stereo with an after market one?


Cheers

had no stereo in when i got it, and was running fine then decided it didnt wanna go for some reason

Is the smart lock light showing on the dash cluster?
To me it sounds like the smart lock behind the stereo has been disconnected.
Happened to me
The wires are green with a yellow trace


Cheers

actually no that light is not showing was why i thought it may have been F*^%$ smartlock, will check tht tm, and get back to ya.....

no light on dash cluster no loose wires that i can find, am assuming that u mean the Green box not the red smart lock box, might try the joining the wires trick an see what haps unless there any more ideas?

have also read that u can by pass smart lock by connecting 12v constant or ignition to pin 4 of the ECU..... has any one tried this if so does it work? would hate to try an end up frying ECU lol.

if there is no light on the dash it means that smart lock is disconnected by the bcm or a break in the 12v to the wires.

make sure there is a smartlock ecu also

DJV8T5 wrote:Do a search on here, I think someone does a bypass for them, or pull the module out and solder the 2 wires that are the same together and leave the module in there, I think that is what most people do.

tried it made no diff at all car still turns over but no start, what i dont get is if do the 30 min reset car starts and runs fine, until i turn it off then back to square one...

BCM is stuffed I would think then. That is the box that is near the radio, I had a look for the Smartlock bypass thing and couldn't find it after I posted that. Look around for another Body Control Module (same colour is required) and replace it, you will have to reset the whole system again so it can learn everything but should be fine after that.

I don't think it's the Bcm. Check the box on the ignition barrel. Around the back of it. Sometimes they come apart and cause that issue


Cheers

ok ignition barrel next on list, 2 wires on smartlock didnt wrk, constant power to ecu didnt wrk, will check ignition barrel,

if tht not wrk have found a bcm tht can try

Where are you located?


Cheers

Dunedin NZ

If it is cranking but forgetting its code and needing a 30min reset every time, it's the body module. A J3 can also fix this.
If the 30min reset doesn't help, it's either the wires between the ECU and the body module, or the interior lamp fuse.
If it's not cranking at all and needs a bash to the left of the wheel, its the two wires into and out of the smartlock module.

galapogos01 wrote:If it is cranking but forgetting its code and needing a 30min reset every time, it's the body module. A J3 can also fix this.
If the 30min reset doesn't help, it's either the wires between the ECU and the body module, or the interior lamp fuse.
If it's not cranking at all and needs a bash to the left of the wheel, its the two wires into and out of the smartlock module.

thanks, got a bcm comin so hopefully back on the road soon

well new bcm didnt solve the problem, what is the reset for entire system? or is that just the 30min? , 30 min reset to start car, let it idle for 10_15 mins then shut down, still cranks but no start...., even with new bcm i have no smartlock light on dash, assume this has something to do with it? an all fuses have been checked and r fine....

I swear there is a wire disconnected somewhere because of no light in the dash


Cheers

yep about to go strip dash out an see if i can find something cause it got me completly stumped

It's hard to say on the net without looking at it. Can only guess and recall experience


Cheers

yeah well have followed wiring loom all the way thru no loose or broken wires, nothin unplugged, wires from dash to smartlock all good ( dash Light ), bcm is new with 3 yr warranty so doubt that faulty aswell,
got me f*&## what it is... owned this car for 5 yrs not 1 tiny issue . karma lol ...................

off chance that it would possibly be something to do with the globe for the Smartlock light on the dash? Very longshot, I don't think that it would have any effect, but everything is worth a shot

the light is an LED
it was one of the things i first checked with mine also

An exceptional security Polaroid framework will diminish your home protection costs. In spite of the fact that every insurance agency might have its own particular norms and regulations, straightforward coherence intimates that the better the security Polaroid framework, the bring down the home protection rates.

Locksmith in Snohomish

WTF?

I believe the answer to your complex question is 'ban'.

Bipolar wrote:I believe the answer to your complex question is 'ban'.

totaly agree

did you end up getting the issue sorted out?

I realise this thread is a bit old but I have had ongoing problems with smartlock for years. I just hold the ignition on and tap the underneath of where the module is. That is the easy part.

Someone above mentioned the Ignition barrel assembly. Yes I also had big problems with this. Went to start one day and the key unlocked the steering but then just flopped about. NRMA started me and when I got home I had to pull the coil lead out to stop the engine.
When I pulled down the covers on steering column I found the bottom (electronic switch) section had come out of the housing. Read the manual and it mentioned grub screws???? Not in the late model ED's grrrrrrrrr They have two litte drive in pins which work loose. Anyways a lot of stuffing around and tapped them back in with a punch and all good for a few weeks.
Then one morning could not start. NRMA could not start, tried reset etc and no go so pulled the steering column apart and found the ignition switch unit again coming loose. the little pins are useless once they come loose the first time and work loose easy. I could push them back in with my fingers they were so loose.

Now Here is how I fixed it. First get some Araldite, 5 minute or Super Strength. Put Araldite around the perimeter of the ignition switch unit and push it back into place and tape it or use Cable ties to hold it in place overnight. Then push the little pins back in and get some Selleys Kneadit Epoxy Putty and mix some up and force it onto and around the pins. Once it cures (1 hour) it will hold the pins in place for good.

Reassemble everything and go through a reset if necessary and Bobs your uncle. All good now 9 months later.

Smart lock module however is still stuffed and needs a tap often. Good cheap security though


Cheers Ric

Im fairly sure ive ended up with this car and still have same problemno smart lock light at all starts after e30 min reset but wont start again

Ric wrote:I realise this thread is a bit old but I have had ongoing problems with smartlock for years. I just hold the ignition on and tap the underneath of where the module is. That is the easy part.

Someone above mentioned the Ignition barrel assembly. Yes I also had big problems with this. Went to start one day and the key unlocked the steering but then just flopped about. NRMA started me and when I got home I had to pull the coil lead out to stop the engine.
When I pulled down the covers on steering column I found the bottom (electronic switch) section had come out of the housing. Read the manual and it mentioned grub screws???? Not in the late model ED's grrrrrrrrr They have two litte drive in pins which work loose. Anyways a lot of stuffing around and tapped them back in with a punch and all good for a few weeks.
Then one morning could not start. NRMA could not start, tried reset etc and no go so pulled the steering column apart and found the ignition switch unit again coming loose. the little pins are useless once they come loose the first time and work loose easy. I could push them back in with my fingers they were so loose.

Now Here is how I fixed it. First get some Araldite, 5 minute or Super Strength. Put Araldite around the perimeter of the ignition switch unit and push it back into place and tape it or use Cable ties to hold it in place overnight. Then push the little pins back in and get some Selleys Kneadit Epoxy Putty and mix some up and force it onto and around the pins. Once it cures (1 hour) it will hold the pins in place for good.

Reassemble everything and go through a reset if necessary and Bobs your uncle. All good now 9 months later.

Smart lock module however is still stuffed and needs a tap often. Good cheap security though


Cheers Ric

Do you still have this car Ric?

The smartlock problem that gets resolved by kicking the dash near the handbrake is probably an easy fix.
Remove the BCM (carefully)
now place it under good lighting and get a 20x or 30x magnifying lens to view the back of the circuit board
Look for dry solder joints. They are not easy to find but I guarantee that if you look at the solder joints of the 4 relays, you will find many dry joints. Just reheat them or if you can add a very tiny...TINY drop of new solder
The relays click on and off and this stresses the joint.
The smartlock problem is now solved! Beats having to join the two wires...better avoid that if possible
Don't forget to use WD40 on both female and male connectors of the BCM


I need to get to lock now. Haven't figured how how it comes apart

SOLVED....the thick YELLOW wire

The BEM does NOT stop the car when it is running. My problem was a BLACKOUT that left you sitting in the middle of the road.
TI performance that sell smartlock bypass modules state,


OTHER STARTING ISSUES
We often have people contact us about EA-AU Falcons that are not starting. Not all issues are smartlock related, for example:

No fuel pump – Smartlock does not affect the fuel pump.
No relays / ignition power – Smartlock does not cut ignition power.
Can randomly stops – Smartlock can not stop a running vehicle.
In these situations we suggest going over all fuses and relays to make sure everything is working. Also check all vehicle earths (battery to body and battery to block where fitted).

So, to cut a very long story short, I finally went under the steering wheel and the fuse box. There is a thick YELLOW wire that goes from the back of the ignition lock assembly to a plug that is tied down in the most hard to reach location between the fuse box and the steering column. Focus on that thick gauge yellow wire!
I took apart that rectangular plug which has 6 (or 8?) female/male connectors. A close look at THE YELLOW FEMALE CONNECTOR (the part that connects the loom to the relays) showed that the metal clip that is crimped on the yellow wire was partly showing from the bottom of the connector. Yes, this wire was not sitting correctly and I had to use nose pliers and considerable force to push the wire crimp back in the connector so that it would mate with the male wire that is housed in the top part of the connector (the one that connects the wires to the ignition assembly). The ford ED has not faulted since!



This yellow wire connects to the green relay UNDER the wiper tank (NOT next to it) This wire was not pulled by mistake.....THE FLAW WAS PRESENT SINCE THE CAR WAS BUILT> This explains why many owners had the same problem. The connector and the loom was well bound to the steering rod by a metal clip which I had to open to access the connector. The car suddenly stops when you are driving along. Many concluded it was the Smartlock, NOT SO! The Smartlock cuts in because messing with that arcing yellow wire is equivalent to trying to hot wire the car. So the Smartlock cuts in.
This was a factory flaw. The person that made those connectors bacl in the early 90s must have had a bad day and did not insert the YELLOW wire properly in the case housing. maybe mine was a Friday car....