Rear Brake Rotor Rubbing on Calliper

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Rear Brake Rotor Rubbing on Calliper

Postby Jecs » April 20th, 2014, 9:07 pm

hey boys,

my mates changing the rear pads on his BF ute.

he was having trouble with getting the new pads in when he noticed the calliper has been rubbing on the rotor

ive spoke to couple a mates and they've said it might have been in a smash and its bent it. im thinking it may have the wrong rotor on it causing it not to seat in the correct spot.

has one ever experienced this? or what to possibly do to fix it?

cheers


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Re: Rear Brake Rotor Rubbing on Calliper

Postby fezza » April 21st, 2014, 7:07 am

either he's let his pads wear down far too much or the caliper is siezed (won't move out). you should be able to slide it across with a screwdriver easily
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Re: Rear Brake Rotor Rubbing on Calliper

Postby SnipeZ » April 21st, 2014, 9:54 am

More looks like the calliper mount might have an issue. When you spin the disc does it wobble at all?
I'd try swapping the mount for another one.

Falcon rear discs are the same for Ba-fg ute sedan wagon etc


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Re: Rear Brake Rotor Rubbing on Calliper

Postby Jecs » April 21st, 2014, 6:53 pm

piston slides back into position. all the other pads went in fine.


another bloke was saying its the hub/wheel bearings. i dont know how that would cause the hub to sit out causing the rotor to sit further out
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Re: Rear Brake Rotor Rubbing on Calliper

Postby holmsy » April 21st, 2014, 10:43 pm

disc not on the axle properly?
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Re: Rear Brake Rotor Rubbing on Calliper

Postby apoc » April 22nd, 2014, 12:18 am

Might be worth pulling the disc off and check the end plate on the diff, could be loose or something? Could be bearings too, but then you would think it'd be slopping around!
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Re: Rear Brake Rotor Rubbing on Calliper

Postby Phildo » May 14th, 2014, 4:23 am

I had something similar last year and it turned out to be a collapsed bearing.

Bearings on the utes are easy enough to replace. Each axle is held in place by four 8mm allen key head bolts.

Get the axles out and take them to a workshop that has a hydraulic press. Either use the press to press the old bearings off or use an angle grinder to cut the collar cage off and then smash the bearing cage off with a hammer and chisel. Then press the new bearings back on.

When removing the collar, bearings, seal and retaining plate, pay attention to the order and which way each item faces. Take photos with a camera or phone.

Taxi workshops use: "Timken 4827 Wheel Bearing Kit" because they last the longest. Do a search for Timken 4827 on eBay. Take the axles to a taxi workshop if you can (do some Google searching) - they do this all the time, so will know what they're doing and will be cheaper than most places.

With the axles out, you'll also be able to see the diff oil. If it looks bad then drain and replace the oil - you'll need a 10mm allen key for the filler bolt. Make sure that you can remove the filler bolt before draining the diff oil.

Why mention the diff oil? Because if it's a collapsed bearing then there will be pieces of bearing cage floating around in the diff oil. Ideally, you would remove the diff backing plate and flush the whole diff/axle tubes out with petrol/kero/whatever to ensure that there are no pieces of metal left in there.

I put together a photo guide recently: http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11418260
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