Boosted Falcon

E everyone. I know this has been talked about abit but direction would be a great help.

Anyway my local ford wreckers have au conversions for e series. What I'm wanting is to use the au motor with my ed mainfold. I know people will say its stupid or pointless cause of whatever reason but its what I want and I know its been done before so can people please give me a list of what I need to do

From what I gather. Modded sumpped au engine bolts straight in. Ed power steering pump bolts on. Ed alternator bolts straight on.
Bolt ed dizzy in
Bolt on ed intake mainfold.
Bolt on ed injector rail
Plug in everything and done.

Anything I'm missing?

Welcome to boosted.

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4939

Have a read of that thread mate.

I have done it. I also have done a serpentine belt conversion, and thermofan conversion to it before I put the AU motor in. If you use the original brackets, the standard accessories should fit, except the A/C which I think need the EF bracket? ED manifold should stay in one piece when you pull it off the old motor. Regasket the motor while it is out, or you might have leaks that will piss you off later.

This shows the basics of what I did to make it fit
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26948&start=40

Awesome info guys, so for a bare AU motor with the sump mod already done from Adelaide Ford Wreckers is $950 its a low k motor so im happy with that price.

what i need to confirm is what i understand with the following.

AU Alternator bolts straight up < will the ED wire loom plug for the Alternator plug in or do i have to cut and Solder a AU Alternator plug to the loom?

ED power steering pump Bolts Right up as long as i use AU pully < how does the pully come off or is it better to use a AU Power steering pump?

My stock ED air compressor will work without need for spacers if i use a XH falcon Belt Tenssioner?

Thermostat housing And Sensor port on side of ED head will bolt right into AU head?

Will ED pacemakers bolt onto AU head or do i need AU extractors?

lastly whats difference other then size between E series motors and the AU INTECH? i think i red somewhere they have much better flow and can be ported and polished alot more then E series engines. any info on whats with a AU intech would be great thanks.

Can you get cams for these or is a grind really it? im eventually getting the M112 Supercharger so cam or no cam dosent bother me performance wise

In ED you only need to grind the front fins off the sump, EF/EL you need to section the sump back on an angle.

If you are going to go to serpentine belt setup (advisable) you can use the AU balancer, AU alternator, EF> p/s pump & EF/EL A/C pump (6 rib as opposed to EA-ED 5 rib) and XH tensioner (suit log manifold). Also you will have to use a few washers to space out the tensioner (1 on top bolt, 2 on bottom bolts is what I have) to make them run straighter to the belt, or the belt rubs on the lower part.

You will be better off using your ED thermostat housing (complete), and you can either use an EF> radiator or cut and shut the 2 lower hoses as they are slightly different sizes water pump end and radiator end.

As far as cams, there are plenty of off the shelf items available, from various companies. Best to call some up and see what they can do for you that will suit your application.

Feel free to ask any more questions

DJV8T5 has it all correct.

This is the bit you need to grind to fit AU motor into boxcar:



AU motor, EF/EL AC compressor and log manifold is achieved by using the EF bracket and some washers to support the top section:



Bolts in red bit go up tight with no washers, you need to pack the top one up to make up the gap:

950? Fark i think thats a bit much mate.
Also grinding the sump didn't work for me, it still rubbed kframe slightly. Best thing to do is cut and shut the kframe

Its a low km bare motor that's already had the sump mod done to suit ef el. So would have that angle cut I presume. So the price isn't a worrie for me.

Well seeing I'm using thermos from a ef el ill use the radiator too.

How many bolts does the tensioner have? Any photos of it?

By way all my mates are trying to convince me to convert to a 5 speed. But I want to stay auto cause it will only be a cruise and hopfully cover car. What can I do to beef up the auto. I know it needs a service but what else

Its a low km bare motor that's already had the sump mod done to suit ef el. So would have that angle cut I presume. So the price isn't a worrie for me.

Well seeing I'm using thermos from a ef el ill use the radiator too.

How many bolts does the tensioner have? Any photos of it?

By way all my mates are trying to convince me to convert to a 5 speed. But I want to stay auto cause it will only be a cruise and hopfully cover car. What can I do to beef up the auto. I know it needs a service but what else

Just put a decent trans cooler on it that bypasses the radiator.
You can put a shift kit in it if you want. Or even an upgraded valve body. But not really necessary.
You will be best to get a tune to get the most out of the engine might aswell use a j3 which u can edit trans parameters, line pressure etc
Also your ed extractors will bolt up fine.

had a look on there website and it says $550 for a bare motor, surley there not charging another $500 for the sump mod :/ if so ill go somewhere else and shave the sump down myself. Anyway

so basicly this is what is to do

buy AU motor, Unbolt all AU acessories if they come with any.
Align Notches on Dizzy underneeth rotor button plastic and remove dizzy,
Remove blank plate from AU motor and install dizzy making sure the notches realign,
install log mainfold and accessories on that side,
Install EF/EL power steering pump
install AU/EF/EL Water pump if it hasn't got it on there already
Install XH belt Tensioner with 1 washer on top bolt and 2 washers on bottom 2 bolts? i think theres 3 bolts all together right?
Install EF/EL air compressor Bracket with lots of washers on top 2 bolts to close gap < do i still use ED air compressor or does EF/EL one bolt up to ED hoses no problems?
Install EF/EL alternator < is this one right or can i use ED one with EF/EL pully?
Install XH sep belt

Bolt on ED flex plate
Slide on ED Auto Transmission
Do up all Bell housing bolts < can someone tell and show me the 2 bolts at bottom that wont be used? and does the cover that goes on once the torque converter is bolted up still bolt in? that tin one?

drop in engine and trans into its hole.
bolt up trans and engine mounts
install wiring
install tail shaft < DUH lol

Complete with 9mm leads new plugs and a shiny red rocker cover

Done

Good luck with your project onboost90

I started the engine swap from ED Gli to AU2 on my budget racer this weekend.

I also couldn't be stuffed doing the BBM conversion, my excuses are
1. BBM is a lot heavier than log manifold.
2. BBM main advantage is more torque at low RPM, not really helpful on a toy reving its guts out all day long

Motor came with all AU accessories.
I found the same issues with the dizzy connector hitting the AC pump.
I'm not running AC and couln't find or make the pulley bracket so ended up gutting and cutting an EF pump to clear the dizzy connector.

K-frame mod will be cut and welded as per this:
thanks to Fordmods posts:---> http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i269/ ... 0_5071.jpg

I am using the ED engine mounts ( 3 bolts) because the log manifold support bracket bolts on the top right 4th hole.
Also using old thermostat housing since the AU one doesn't have a temp sender.

Couple of thinks I'm not sure of:
- Will the ED power steering hoses fit the AU pump?
- The ef/el/au oil pressure sender is no good to my ED dash and the one on my old engine broke.
It seems that EA/ED sender is part number VDO 360.013. Will find from REPCO today if this is still available.

so basicly this is what is to do

buy AU motor, Unbolt all AU acessories if they come with any. - AU P/S pump will work, EA-AU P/S pump is all the same from what I understand, just different pulleys
Align Notches on Dizzy underneeth rotor button plastic and remove dizzy, - you will need to find TDC on cyl 1 on AU motor and align dizzy accordingly, easiest with rocker cover off - you will need a slightly longer coil lead
Remove blank plate from AU motor and install dizzy making sure the notches realign, - should have a cam sync sensor, the motor I got had one. Bit harder to get out, but lever it up with a big flat head
install log mainfold and accessories on that side,
Install EF/EL power steering pump - AU is fine if it has one EF-AU all have the same pulley
install AU/EF/EL Water pump if it hasn't got it on there already
Install XH belt Tensioner with 1 washer on top bolt and 2 washers on bottom 2 bolts? i think theres 3 bolts all together right? - correct, I will get pics for you, yours may be different though
Install EF/EL air compressor Bracket with lots of washers on top 2 bolts to close gap < do i still use ED air compressor or does EF/EL one bolt up to ED hoses no problems? EF/EL A/C pump required, 6 rib pulley over 5 rib on EA-ED
Install EF/EL alternator < is this one right or can i use ED one with EF/EL pully? - AU motor = AU Alternator. You will need the plug to go with it. You can get new ones for $130 off eBay
Install XH sep belt - 6PK2400 from memory

Bolt on ED flex plate - make sure you put sandwich plate on first. Taking it all off because you forgot is a bitch. I had to learn from experience
Slide on ED Auto Transmission
Do up all Bell housing bolts < can someone tell and show me the 2 bolts at bottom that wont be used? and does the cover that goes on once the torque converter is bolted up still bolt in? that tin one? - quite literally just the bottom 2 bolts don't line up. Not sure if you can swap bellhousings, but I am pretty sure that you could if you wanted to. The only issue would be if the bellhousings were different lengths

drop in engine and trans into its hole.
bolt up trans and engine mounts
install wiring
install tail shaft < DUH lol

Complete with 9mm leads new plugs and a shiny red rocker cover - get leads on dizzy BEFORE you put the intake on, it will be much easier

Done

hope that helps a little more

DJV8T5 wrote:so basicly this is what is to do

buy AU

Fixed!

Cant help yourself, can you Ev. lol at buying an AU...only if it is a V8 and manual would I want one

I'm gonna ignore that comment cause its not what I asked...anyone more helpfull care to answer

Mate if you need any more help then above take it to a mechanic.

All I was asking was to confirm what I wrote is correct. Don't need smart arse comments

Chill mate, was hardly a smart arse comment more so just a joke.

The way you have it planned will be fine. Do lots of reading and searching if you need any more help.

Or just ask here! We are all happy to help. Except nut. Hes grumpy kent

I'll help people that don't throw a tanty over something that was clearly a joke.

I'm not grumpy, I just can't handle retards.

I will put out though, Ev's AU love is getting to the awkward stage. Kinda like Charlie sheens coke habit.

Lol

Starting to cost me just as much as well!

Apparently the XH kink style belt tenssioners are hard to find, so what would need to be done in order to use a AU or EF EL one? if possible at all

Maybe try and find a larger top pulley and relieve the back of the tensioner a bit to get some more space?

to use an EF/EL/AU tensioner, you need to run the BBM rather than the log manifold, due to clearance issues

When Rollin and I did the AU conversion on my ED, we used the EF/AU tensioner with the Log manifold, and had no issues for a few years. When the balancer decided to split, the belt went from a 6 rib, to a 3 rib... I then found an XH tensioner and problem fixed.

I have an XH tensioner for sale... Comes with AU XR6 HP engine, with a fair bit done to it!!

You can get new complete XH tensioners from Repco still.

Any idea on price from repco?

Call Repco

You know what man, I will call them for you

$70 for an XH tensioner from repco

sorry for late reply guys been busy stressing over being a new father and being in my exs life and walking on egg shells in process.
went to adelaide ford wreckers, they got a really low k series 3 AU motor with sump cut already done for $800 and they will chuck on alternator and power steering pump for me. so all i need is EF aircon bracket and pump a XH belt tensioner and belt and a AU alternator plug to soldier onto loom. im gonna replace the water pump seeing there cheap anyway. also they have a recon 4speed auto AU trans i can have for $350

and thinking on the 2 stage shift kit, so theres off switch for normal driving and medium and firm shift on a separate switch
getting pacemaker PH4499 a outlaw 200cell high flow and redback 2.5" with dump tip

all 100% whiteline bushes and parts and king spring superlows with Monroe gt short shocks with short bumpstops

bodywise not sure where to go yet, im getting 19" pre au GTP wheels and the color is that silver to blue argon silver. was thinking the sprint bodykit with lip spoiler too but not changing the headlights to the twins. maybe BA bulge