Boosted Falcon

So after askin Johnny last night how many engines hes been thru since he turbo'd his EF he tells me 3.
I want to eventually turbo mine, minus the 3 blown engines. Do I need to do any MAJOR work to the motor b4 I strap a turbo to it?...It's a EF2 XR6. Done over 200,000. Any suggestions as to what should be done so I dont have the head trauma after its turbo'd?

Dont skimp on fuel management and tuning and she'll be right.

Try to get a "kit" if possible, rather than buying a turbo from here, a manifold from there, etc etc.

Avoid ebay cheap turbos

What do you think of Jim Mock's work? Are they over rated?

t1MMy wrote:What do you think of Jim Mock's work? Are they over rated?

Great work but you have to be Bill Gates to afford it

Do you mean EFFaclon John? Wern't there problems with the motors before they went into the car?

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Put a BA motor in it then!! Its easy imo. People on here OD because 1 slow tuner couldnt do his job on my car.

If you go for an AU motor and not a BA motor, you may as well turbo the current motor, and build another motor in the mean time. When the EL motor dies, replace and take skidpics.

Back to the opening topic for a sec, whether you turbo or supercharge it, boost = boost, the motor will handle each one the same.

Whats the go with the BA cams? A Ford workshop manual made for Ultra-Tune I read ages ago said the cams just use a 32-1 tooth (or similar) sensor for cam angle, and if the VCT controller is unplugged, the cams just sit in their usual position. Does that sound accurate at all?

MS2 can run CoP and dual VCT. mmmm adjustable LSA...

Nah the cams run a 3+1 trigger setup. The crank wheel is 36-1.

When disconnected they either lock in 1 positon - Fully advanced or retarded, I cant remember. Or they contintually move due to oil pressure - What the guy who worked on my car said.

After reading the manual I reckon its the first option.

Ah yeah that rings a bell actually. I'd imagine the cams would have to lock in somewhere safe as a LHM.

Just get a good full turbo kit, a decent computer and related fuel system, exhaust, a stronger drive-line, some minor internal motor upgrades and you'll be laughing.

89AIT wrote:Just get a good full turbo kit, a decent computer and related fuel system, exhaust, a stronger drive-line, some minor internal motor upgrades and you'll be laughing.

Thanx mate. As u would be aware a car that has done over 200,000 would hate it if I put a turbo on it and no engine work.
Ive been told new pistons & rings, a mild cam and valve springs.....aswell as the tappets, but they r a given.

It would work on a 200k motor but a freshen up would be a good idea. You are correct.

My old EB was fine with 200rwkw for 6 months when it had 300,000kms. Then the rings went.

new pistons & rings? only if the engine's stuffed/you're having a high PSI setup happening. or if you just want to be on the really really safe side.

Well it blows a small bit of weed when I sink the foot into it now. It was using a bit of oil so i checked the cam cover gasket and sure enough it was cactus. So ive changed that, and done a oil and filter change, pressure runs normal bit still using more oil that it should, the tappet noise is there, but not bad. What else could it be apart from the rings??

Keep that motor then, engines that produce weed are pretty rare! You could make a mint.

LOL smart ass

Hrm... you may be right with the blowby... Topping up your 4.0 with cheap oil beats sinking $$$ into a rebuild though Then again just getting a fresh(er) replacement motor may be a cheap(er) option!

Back to the opening topic for a sec, whether you turbo or supercharge it, boost = boost, the motor will handle each one the same.

Load vs RPMs if we're talking turbo vs centrifugal blower



Another important thing to consider would be your drivetrain. If you go T5 manual, it will be a pretty nervous gearbox... If you go BTR get a cooler for it & a shift kit (pref mechanical shift kit), and you'll be laughing.

Ive just removed the old trans and put a T5 in it. Yes I realise they arent the strongest, but its better than the sloppy 200K auto. Drives much better now!!. Maybee ill just stick to doing a basic rebuild eg: valve stem seals, Valve springs and tappets as well as a mild cam.
It goes in for a full re-spray in a few weeks.

Engine 1 went due to bad oil pressure after a 'heated' run up arthurs seat.
bad oil pressure = damaged bearing, problem would have occured if the motor was turbo'd or N/A.

drove it for a few months with a knock in the bottom end, only changed it coz the noise got annoying.

2nd motor was a cheapie, $300 with all accessories and manifold, had a known hard life but i needed a motor quick smart.
it blew lots of smoke on the first drive so completely unrelated to turbo.
engine was in the car for 1 year, did Drags, Skidpan, Track day and ended up changing because people following couldn't breathe when i booted it.

Engine 3 is in the car now, blows smoke on cold start, again was doing this on first drive, not turbo related.

i'd turbo ur current motor, my issues have been completely unrelated to the turbo hence why i just chuck cheapies back in it.

..

don't rebuild it!
turbo it first, iron out the bugs on a average motor, run like 6psi, then build it proper once you know everything else is upto scratch.

LOL I wanna iron out the bugs b4 I turbo it.

t1MMy wrote:LOL I wanna iron out the bugs b4 I turbo it.

A low boost turbo setup aint gonna kill your motor! Check out how many people on here are running turbo setups on standard internals. As long as it's tuned right, you'll have no issues.

private9 wrote:

t1MMy wrote:LOL I wanna iron out the bugs b4 I turbo it.

A low boost turbo setup aint gonna kill your motor! Check out how many people on here are running turbo setups on standard internals. As long as it's tuned right, you'll have no issues.

amen to that.... and its great to see mine is still kicking after 2 years.....

BLKPHN wrote:amen to that.... and its great to see mine is still kicking after 2 years.....

And ALOT of fun!

OK. maybee I worry too much because of the noisy tappets. I gotta get that issue sorted soon. Not very noisy, but I can hear them and they piss me off.

t1MMy wrote:OK. maybee I worry too much because of the noisy tappets. I gotta get that issue sorted soon. Not very noisy, but I can hear them and they piss me off.

Change your oil! Failing that, recondition the engine properly with a bottle of Stop Smoke and Lifter Free up. A full reco like that will cost $20

I changed the oil last week, as well as a new R/C gasket and oil filter. AND....i ran a lifter free-up oil thru it too.
Its the tappets.

Dansedgli wrote:My old EB was fine with 200rwkw for 6 months when it had 300,000kms. Then the rings went.

sounds exactly like mine.
haha
rings FTL