Boosted Falcon

Considering i dont have a decent drive way to our appartment, i dont know if im too keen on dumping the Mont just yet.

even now i struggle to get in and out without scraping and its stock height.

and i kind of want to get the wheels at the same time i lower, so that whole process may have to wait til next year when we start looking for a new house.

i am coming into some money i could prob throw onto the car.

what mods would be the way to go other than lowering and wheels?

Exhaust/extractors?

probs have 1000 bucks to spend.

any suggestions would be sweet.

Pay $1000 more off the mortgage.

Spending $$$ on rims & them having it sit sky-high usually looks like arse, so if you spend on rims & lowering, lower it first.

Have a search around, there's heaps of threads on cheap mods/what-to-do-first/etc etc

+1 vote for mortgage repayment.

what will that mod do?

like performance wise?



if i had a mortgage thats prob where it would go.

put the grand into a Build Fund and save for a year

Gozza wrote:put the grand into a Build Fund and save for a year

have thought about this but im fanging to do something to it...

FANGING!!!!!

Save the coin. $1000 isnt really alot of money when it comes to modding a car.
Mortgage is where id put the money if I had a house to pay off.

t1MMy wrote:Save the coin. $1000 isnt really alot of money when it comes to modding a car..

grrrr.
not the answer i want to hear!! hahaha.

good smart option though.

for a $1000 you could get a full exhaust, a decent cam and a histall..

$300 for full exhaust
$200 for a lumpy cam
$200 for decent histall

and im pretty sure if you offered someone on here $300 cash to put it all in for you they would.

so overall for a $1000 you have turned a almost 17 sec car into something that could do 15 sec down 1/4.

thats just my opinion tho.

you could go and get a LSD instead of the histall and rip patches.

stockiEF wrote:for a $1000 you could get a full exhaust, a decent cam and a histall..

$300 for full exhaust
$200 for a lumpy cam
$200 for decent histall

and im pretty sure if you offered someone on here $300 cash to put it all in for you they would.

so overall for a $1000 you have turned a almost 17 sec car into something that could do 15 sec down 1/4.

thats just my opinion tho.

you could go and get a LSD instead of the histall and rip patches.

$300 for a FULL exhaust?? What drugs are you on?? I want some!! lol....extractors cost you more than $300 themselves.

elfairmontshane wrote:

Gozza wrote:put the grand into a Build Fund and save for a year

have thought about this but im fanging to do something to it...

FANGING!!!!!

Yeah but after you spend the grand you'll be bored pretty quickly

You could get a full exhaust and reground cam - Performance improvement would be noticeable but fun factor wouldn't last long
Or do a Manual conversion if Auto - Performance would would be nice and fun factor would be good but still a stock car
Its an Auto you could find a cheap Xr6 LSD and a higher stall converter
etc etc

1000 Won't get you far and as soon as you do something you'll be on to the next thing - You also have to ask yourself where you want it eventually - Once you start power mods you can't stop lol untill you break shit and then buying tougher bits mean more power and its just gos on and on and on

[quote="t1MMy]$300 for a FULL exhaust?? What drugs are you on?? I want some!! lol....extractors cost you more than $300 themselves.[/quote]

dude you can get pacemaker extractors for $200 quite easily.. cat-backs are only worth $120 or so nowadays and when you buy it all togethor people will do a deal..

oh and this is not brand new prices! second hand..

Gozza wrote:

elfairmontshane wrote:

Gozza wrote:put the grand into a Build Fund and save for a year

have thought about this but im fanging to do something to it...

FANGING!!!!!

Yeah but after you spend the grand you'll be bored pretty quickly

You could get a full exhaust and reground cam - Performance improvement would be noticeable but fun factor wouldn't last long
Or do a Manual conversion if Auto - Performance would would be nice and fun factor would be good but still a stock car
Its an Auto you could find a cheap Xr6 LSD and a higher stall converter
etc etc

1000 Won't get you far and as soon as you do something you'll be on to the next thing - You also have to ask yourself where you want it eventually - Once you start power mods you can't stop lol untill you break shit and then buying tougher bits mean more power and its just gos on and on and on

Haha good post.

Considering im not a mechanical whiz, i dont want to go nutz. (dont have the knoweledge to go nutz)

i just want a really nice looking mont with a few engine mods to make it go that extra bit harder.

Turn it into a nice cruising/daily.

Nice cruising/daily that goes a bit harder? OK this is a bit more specific than your first post, however there are still heaps of threads of similar topic as mentioned.

Well for that $1000 look no further than a 4.11 LSD (or lokka) and an electronic shift kit for the auto. And a moderate histall (2500rpm tops) if you can somehow score all of the above for <$1000 (I did).

The car will make no extra power but it will have shtloads more poke.

Commando wrote:
Well for that $1000 look no further than a 4.11 LSD (or lokka) and an electronic shift kit for the auto. And a moderate histall (2500rpm tops) if you can somehow score all of the above for <$1000 (I did).

The car will make no extra power but it will have shtloads more poke.

Sounds fun...

i need to study into these parts and find out ezactly what they do,
will it all be compatible with a LPG conversion that is planned for down the track?
and keep the same effect?

They're driveline parts. 4.11 LSD is the diff, for every 4.11 turns of the tailshaft the diff turns the axles once. Hi-stall is kind of like a "clutch" for the auto, a standard stall will flash up to say 2000rpm tops. Having it flash higher (say 2500rpm) will allow the engine to rev straight into the middle of the fat torque band rather than be all doughy down low. Electronic (or mechanical) shift kit will make the auto change gears harder.

These will have no impact on an LPG setup/vice-versa. Except possibly slightly reducing load on the engine (if your ignition system isn't quite up to scratch when on LPG, & you're running a bit lean, an an engine under load may want to backfire). But that's a really-far-out-there theory.

You'll be right

Commando wrote:. Hi-stall is kind of like a "clutch" for the auto, a standard stall will flash up to say 2000rpm tops. Having it flash higher (say 2500rpm) will allow the engine to rev straight into the middle of the fat torque band rather than be all doughy down low. Electronic (or mechanical) shift kit will make the auto change gears harder.

Will this mean hell of a lot more fuel consumption?

when you said you done all this for under 1000 it was obviously second hand yeah?

thanks for the info, i will still read into it to get a full understanding of how it all works...

Fuel economy around town would possibly be better with higher diff gears as it will take less effort to get off the line - You will have a higher RPM cruise speed on the highway though

save the money until you can lower and get wheels , save and save and get some awsome 20inch wheels

Yeah, that does make sence.
Being on gas though its going to be majorly cheaper anyways.

I live inner suburbs so prob not alot of highway cruising, unless its down to geelong for the footy...

Go Cats...

haha

Kind of. I lost approx 50kms to a tank when I had a 3000rpm hi-stall fitted. Just because it could flash to 3000rpm doesn't mean it sits on 3000rpm when cruising, a lot of hi-stalls these days have a lockup feature so that when you're cruising on the highway it'll stay pretty much at normal RPMs (mine sat about 50rpm higher than normal I think...) but as soon as you come to a decent hill or put the throttle down 1/4 or beyond, it'll unlock and rev a little more.

If you drive around easily, like on 1/4 throttle, it won't jump to the flashpoint & sit there, it'll only do that under WOT. If I was cruising around town, it would flash to 2000-2200rpm before locking up again, not the full 3000.

Yep 2nd hand items, although I made the shiftkit myself for <$10. There's a diagram somewhere on here (search for it --> search.php )

In my case:

Diff gears - $170 including fitting (bargain! I believe mine are proper Richmond gears too. Plus I already had LSD. A mate wanted my ratios & I wanted his, so it cost us $340 to have the two centres swapped over). Normally expect $300ish or above for fitting diff gears, and approx $150 for the gears themselves (from an R31 Pintara)
Stally - $400 + $150-200ish fitting
Shift kit - $10ish
Driveline Total - ~$800ish

buy a v8

$1000

-Strippers
-Booze
-DJ
-Security
-food

1 massive party

Nikk O'lass wrote:$1000

-Strippers
-Booze
-DJ
-Security
-food

1 massive party

+123903409

id say shift kit, and extractors and exaust

A thousand will go a long way towards a better place to live... $20 extra a week (1000/20 =50 weeks) to live in a better place is worth more to me than an exhaust!

Nothing wrong with living in Elsternwick, prob one of the better areas in this awesome city.
its just the drive way, its a fucker!

Exhaust or intake (both could be done for 1k, shop wisely)