Boosted Falcon

G'day everyone, been searching for some ideas on a new car over the past week, gone from VY/VZ SS's back to BA XR8's but pretty sure now i want to buy an XR6 Turbo!

I have a question if someone could lend some advice.....

- Is there any difference between BA Mk1's and BA Mk2's in terms of the gearbox they run or is it only different from Ba's to Bf's.....??


Thanks Cranners

Pretty sure the BA MK2 got the 6 speed manual instead of 5 speed in the MK1, but the auto's were the same between the two (4spd).

I have found a few that are pretty cheap, one is a BA MkII 70,000K's in Velocity comes with a RWC as well

yes that's correct. 6M was introduced with Mk2, replaced the 5M.. The auto only changed in 2005 when they introduced the (BF) ZF 6A in two different forms..

Series 2 had 3.73 diff gears, Series 1 had 3.45.

What are the little things i need to look for when buying one of these??

Im walking into a dark tunnel with no idea what to expect with the Ba's.....not like the E-series i know well..

ba mk1

xr6t and xr8 came as 4sp auto or 5 speed manual only.

also came with 3.45/3.46 M86( 4 pinion lsd)

ba mk2
came out as

T56 or 4 speed auto (pretty sure 5 sp manual was a no go on them at all)

not sure if all the 6 speed manuals got the 3.73 diff or just the fpv's of this era...

the 4 speed still came with 3.45/3.46 M86 diff..

the bfmk1 came out as 6 sp auto, and 6 sp manual all 6sp auto got 2.77 M86 diffs and the t56 all got 3.73 diffs.

you can get bf mk1 and mk2 in 4 speed auto but i think only na 6's.
bf mk2 same as mk1 in terms of the xr6t/xr8 range.

bfmk2 xr8 sedans got larger front brake calipers as standard, which was also available as an option across the board for the earlier models...
2 piston vented calipers and 328mm i think discs....

they are the same brakes as on ba 1 and 2 gt's and ba mk2 typhoons (unless brembos optioned up).



the tips to look out for when buying them....


DIFF BUSH!

if its auto, put it into drive and let go of the brake so it rolls forward a bit, then stop again. put it in reverse....if a real bad clunk chances are the center rear diff bush is flogged out (around 900 retail to fix through ford)

if its manual as you bring out the clutch there will be a clunking noise coming from the rear, its more obvious as a passenger in the back of the car...

also if the side diff bushes are flogged out it will almost sound like its got a spool in it when turning at low speeds and clunks around alot in the back...


hand brake is a bit annoying in ba but isnt expensive to get working properly... most ford dealerships adjust them correctly its jsut the shifty no name places that nip up the cable...

brake shudder... make sure you take the car on a drive of at least 15mins... around the block usually wont induce brake shudder...

down big hills hold the brake on continuously to control your speed. doesnt take long for ba's with shudder to make it evident....

other problems are sometimes when the car is fitted with a larger exhaust system but no tune/wastegate actuator mods they tend to overboost and end up running worse than standard...

standard exhaust heat shields (over cat secion and stuff) tend to rattle loose on the earlier models and cause lots of rattle noises....

make sure the heater goes from hot to cold as normal... if the heater doesnt get hot the car will probably have a broken mixer shaft which means dash out and heater box out and replace a $32 part....$500 in labour later...

rough idle usually caused by just dirt and shit building up in the throttle body, takes 10 mins to clean with a can of carby clean...

also on ba mk1 they had an older style idle speed controller which was shit..

high pressure power steering line leaks are pretty common, usually its just the union going into the pump and most people replace the whole line... it is however possible to replace just the union... $260 for line and $8 for union...you do the math..

try your hardest to get one with warranty still as people underestimate how much more BA turbos are to maintain.

also another thing which people tend to forget sometimes...

BA BUILD QUALITY = LOL.

the panels rarely line up, the interior trims always never do lol...

when you take a good close look at 99% of ba's they look like they have been in a smash or something just by the bonnet gaps, boot gaps, door gaps etc etc....

look for dif problems (clunks, thuds), driveline shunt in general, steering clunks, warped brakes, rough idle, just to name a few. There are good BA's out there but you need to hunt around to find them!

bentls wrote:try your hardest to get one with warranty still as people underestimate how much more BA turbos are to maintain.

You're about 5 days late to get a BA with warranty LOL
How does warranty help with maintenance?

i did not mean wear and tear items such as pads discs tyres etc, just stuff like if you flog the diff bush out it might be a bit annoying but not annoying enough to warrant you spending $900 to get fixed however if you still have warranty its free to fix....

and you can stil get ba's with warranty... the car might have first been sold january 2006 and be a very late built ba mk2....

we just sold a september built 07 focus the other week but warranty started at date of delivery...

bentls wrote:i did not mean wear and tear items such as pads discs tyres etc, just stuff like if you flog the diff bush out it might be a bit annoying but not annoying enough to warrant you spending $900 to get fixed however if you still have warranty its free to fix....

and you can stil get ba's with warranty... the car might have first been sold january 2006 and be a very late built ba mk2....

we just sold a september built 07 focus the other week but warranty started at date of delivery...

Do you work at Ford mate??

Thanks for all the advice everyone, helping me out alot

Good investment Paul!

Kaddis wrote:Good investment Paul!

This time its actually happening, got discussions happening with different sources as we speak

bentls wrote:BA BUILD QUALITY = LOL.

This is the main thing to remember. You want AT LEAST a BA2.

My ute is a BA1 and I would put its build quality right up there with EA's... though it has been very reliable mechanically.

Lol Cranjet you are turning in to one of those shtkickers who can't decide what they wanna do. A year or so ago you were kickin about asking similar questions, a few weeks ago you wanted 20's and then I saw you post about wanting GTP rims or something, then you posted about being interested in a EL Ghia lol... WHAT ARE YOU DOING!!

Hello!

Sundeep wrote:Lol Cranjet you are turning in to one of those shtkickers who can't decide what they wanna do. A year or so ago you were kickin about asking similar questions, a few weeks ago you wanted 20's and then I saw you post about wanting GTP rims or something, then you posted about being interested in a EL Ghia lol... WHAT ARE YOU DOING!!

All he needs to do it buy an XR6T and be done with it!

haha i know the feeling, all i know is i want to sell my shitbox while its still worth something.... then decide later when everything else is cheaper

Sundeep wrote:Lol Cranjet you are turning in to one of those shtkickers who can't decide what they wanna do. A year or so ago you were kickin about asking similar questions, a few weeks ago you wanted 20's and then I saw you post about wanting GTP rims or something, then you posted about being interested in a EL Ghia lol... WHAT ARE YOU DOING!!

I have mad the strategic business decision to get rid of the EL cause its more trouble than its worth and buy a new car....

Visiting the bank next week to get the moneys all sorted out then i go looking with a cheque book in hand ready to drop a deposit down...

The EL will be at the famous Manchester Road Kinder Car Yard this Sunday ready to be sold

Dont get a shock when they offer you $2,000 for the EL.

No car yard ever helps you out IMO. Your best off buying a car private sale.

what aloud of crap not all "NO NAME" mechanic shops adjust just the handbrake cable.I work in a small business and i have been in the trade for 8years now and i know that our business doesnot adjust the handbrake cable.We adjust them at the handbrake shoes.this wa mentioned by "bentls" in one of his earlier posts.As for other things to look out for in the BA's and BF's is the center climate control station,they have had many problems with these packin in and cost a few dollars to be repaired or replaced.Another thing to look out for especially on the 6cylinder BA's is when you start them and they run rough or missfire or just dont start at all.They need the cam solenoids cleaned due to gumming up.have done plenty of these.They say the service intervals on the BA's is 15,000km which i far too long if you ask me.Should service your vehicle every 5000km for oil and 10,000km for filter.I have just recently replaced all 17 bushes in the rear end of a BF sedan not a hard job but very fiddly.Replaced the 3 diff bushes and all the suspension bushes.This was an ex-cop car with 150,000km and all the diff bushes were flogged out.Now it is a taxi (dedicated gas).I also have fitted a rebuilt typhoon motor to a BA MK2 XR6 this is also a big job you have to drop the engine and gearbox out from underneath the vehicle,it is very difficult to remove the engine from the top because you will have to fold back abit of the firewall at the top to remove it.Now back to my point most mechanics in a dealership wouldnt know how to clean and repack and adjust wheel bearings or adjust points or timing.lol.Myself and many of my fellow mates and other mechanics who do the right job who are also mechanis in smaller business's dont like people who say crap like quote "most ford dealerships adjust them correctly its jsut the shifty no name places that nip up the cable" this was quoted by "bentls".(just keep this rubbish talk to yourself.)
Also another thing to look out for on the 03 model BA's is that the cam gears break/strip off.The earlier turboed 6's overboost blowing up motors.Front lower and upper balljoints are big problems on AU through to BF have replaced many of these.
Good luck with your purchase and hope you enjoy what you find.

lol got defensive fast didnt ya...
i didnt say all non ford dealers do it the wrong way i said the shifty no name places do.
edit: im sure you do a great job sounds like you actually enjoy your work and take pride in it, unlike alot of mechanics around my area.

[quote="bentls"]


hand brake is a bit annoying in ba but isnt expensive to get working properly... most ford dealerships adjust them correctly its jsut the shifty no name places that nip up the cable...


Umm yes you did say that all non ford dealers do it the wrong way.Look above mate.As for me arkin up quickly well we have all the rite to ark up when you just read from a magazine or a brochure get out in the real world get a job and see what its like to work on cars every day and you then say crap like that.most mechanics do great work to ensure peoples saftely of there automobiles and also do regular servicing on them also to help the environment.I dont like your attitude.i can say there is a small amount of mechanics out there that dont do the right thing.

In this trade you have people who take pride in there work and do the job right and then you have those who only do it for a job and dont take care and pride in the work they do and this industry doesnt need them.Good mechanics are becoming very rare.Try and find a young mechanic in there 20's still in the trade.I start when i was 17 and i will be doing this for a long time to come.i enjoy my job every day is a great day for new possiblities and pushing the limits of thinking and engineering.

kruptd wrote:

bentls wrote:

hand brake is a bit annoying in ba but isnt expensive to get working properly... most ford dealerships adjust them correctly its jsut the shifty no name places that nip up the cable...


Umm yes you did say that all non ford dealers do it the wrong way.Look above mate.As for me arkin up quickly well we have all the rite to ark up when you just read from a magazine or a brochure get out in the real world get a job and see what its like to work on cars every day and you then say crap like that.most mechanics do great work to ensure peoples saftely of there automobiles and also do regular servicing on them also to help the environment.I dont like your attitude.i can say there is a small amount of mechanics out there that dont do the right thing.

In this trade you have people who take pride in there work and do the job right and then you have those who only do it for a job and dont take care and pride in the work they do and this industry doesnt need them.Good mechanics are becoming very rare.Try and find a young mechanic in there 20's still in the trade.I start when i was 17 and i will be doing this for a long time to come.i enjoy my job every day is a great day for new possiblities and pushing the limits of thinking and engineering.

whoa. bit firey arnt we?

before you get all sooky mate, bentles works @ ford.thats right, as a mechanic.
paul was askin advise then you fill his thread with your shit.

cranners. as said i would look for a ba mk2 if you go manual as they have the 6 speed.
only prob is some of there colors people like were only mk1 colors.
i would say test a few cars out before buying one.
good to see ya getting turbo 6. so much more potentialthe the 8.
real good power for not alot of $$$

great for him working at ford,i worked at a ford dealership for a couple of months (as a mechanic).i left there becuase of the management was very poor standard.i also worked at honda and volvo dealership for some years and now am in a small business (mechanical).
Please answer one question for me.What is the main purpose of the dealerships for example.You buy a 06 turboed xr6 falcon with the warranty and extended warranty you drive it for a couple of months and get it serviced at ford or another " NO NAME" business and you decide to buy and fit a cold air intake for it and a larger exhaust system.Now within a couple of weeks of fitting this your engine decides to through a rod out the side of the block around number 5 or 6 cylinder this happens while cruising in top gear at 100 or 110.Now you go back to ford to claim warranty ,but they say they cant warrant your vehicle because it was voided with you fitting a cold air intake and a larger exhaust.Then your left with either finding a second hand turbo motor for around the $4500 to $6500 mark and or having your old motor rebuild whiich will need a new block sump pistons crank etc.Now what is FORD dealership good for then?????
I will tell you what sort of money this fellow spent on his orange BA MK2 XR6 6spd.Costed him $5000 i dont know where he got the motor from but it was a TYPHOON motor without inlet and exhaust manifolds.It was fully rebuild with H beams or I beam rods,forged pistons,then was machined to allow better air flow and the cams were reground for a better profile.Also fitted a new flywheeland clutch this was a lightened flywheel and heavy duty clutch pack.Once all the motor was fitted and ready to drive out of the workshop it cost him $10,000.That was engine,clutch kit,also had to rewired the oxygen sensor circuit (had a small fire when the rod went through the block) and also labour for fitting the engine.This engine before the blow up was pushing 387kw at the motors had a APS exhaust intake injectors edit on the computer and i think it had a modified turbo fitted.When you drove it you knew it went.

That post serves no purpose to this thread. OMG warranty was voided for aftermarket mods. Who woulda thunk it.

bentls wrote:hand brake is a bit annoying in ba but isnt expensive to get working properly... most ford dealerships adjust them correctly its jsut the shifty no name places that nip up the cable...

He said SHIFTY no name places.

Is your place shifty? If not then you dont need to take offence. Cut it out with the angry replies and let the thread continue.

And use the freaking ENTER button!

I need a nap after reading all that