Boosted Falcon

so you screw the lock spacer in to the rack then the rack arm to the spacer resolving in toe in yer?

were you guys buy the rack spacer's from? are they straight bolt in to factory e-series racks or do you have to re drill then then thread to e-series spc.


when i can be ass'd i was going to get a set of ED lowers, put them in a jig and try to flatten them out as atm ED factory arms the end that goes to the stub axle kick's up at an angle and bolts over the stub axle. so i reckon if you can get the lower arm flat you should see a few more mill's of camber.

We just used nissan 5mm slip on lock spacers.

Simple case of ajusting tie rod in the thickness of the spacer then pulling the boot back, undoing rackend then slip it on and lock tight the thread then doing it back up.

The nissan rackends run a larger thread so had to make sure it was centered when it was tighten.

Also jacked up knuckle hits the head of the bolt for the shock so we ground down bolt and knucle a bit and sway bar but back on the ground dont touch

lawler wrote:We just used nissan 5mm slip on lock spacers.

Simple case of ajusting tie rod in the thickness of the spacer then pulling the boot back, undoing rackend then slip it on and lock tight the thread then doing it back up.

The nissan rackends run a larger thread so had to make sure it was centered when it was tighten.

Also jacked up knuckle hits the head of the bolt for the shock so we ground down bolt and knucle a bit and sway bar but back on the ground dont touch

that lock spacer look anything like these one's?

Both sides need to be slip on ones like the midle bit. Screw on ones wont fit

lawler wrote:Both sides need to be slip on ones like the midle bit. Screw on ones wont fit

yer im picking up what your putting down.

what kind of thread did you end up with once u slipped the spacer over the rack end of the tie rod arm?

There was still a safe amount but we locked tighted it to be on the safe side

kool. were did you get the spacers from ebay?

They do sell them on ebay. But i normaly just order them strait from gktech web site

Can someone explain to me how rack spacers work? Do they simply make the tie-rods longer, which gives mass toe-in on a Falcon? I must be missing something.

I can understand needing them with longer/relocated LCAs, but I don't understand how they're meant to increase lock with a rear-mounted rack.

They allow the rack to have a slightly longer travel - longer travel = more lock.

The downside is the pivot point for the tie rods is further apart than it used to be so it can create bump steer and stuff, but the extra lock is worth it*






*I've heard, never done it myself to compare.

I had a lock spacer in my ke70 the screw in type ( screws into the steering rack then tie rod screws into that, it added about 10/15 degrees lock), which can be the difference between spinning out or holding big enough angle

i put 5.2mm slip on rack spacers on my soarer, made a big difference, but id much rather make up the lock with the knuckles cos it makes it faster too...

Knuckles on a falcon could be interesting. We have looked at it a few times but keep getting put off trying.

Bump steer isnt to bad. I ran the same ones in my 31 with 10mm out of them and 25mm bolt on spacers and bump steer was minimal even with tie rod, steering rack and knuckles hight/angles not being ideal.

Down side of knuckles mixed with 6-7deg caster is if your steering rack seals arnt the best they wont last long.

Also i cant rember if falcon run steering rack mount bushs or bolt on like comodores. If its bushs you would want to replace them to be on the safe side. My 31 destroyed the 23 year old bush causing the rack mounts to work loss a few times