Boosted Falcon

Hey all I have posted a few threads with builds ect, ok so we have cut the knuckles on the hub a re welded them too give us 1 steering revolution for full lock, what we have figured out after snapping 2 cross member bolts for the steering rack a bending 1, the mod we have done for the knuckles if giving way too much stress on other components, so im put the old hub and stubb axles back on and going back too the normal steering, so now what I want too do is put 16x10 on the front and fiddle around with shimming , have any of yous have a good gauge on caster and camber? need to make the car as easy too drive as possible , any help would be good thanks !

Can you chuck up some pics of what you've done and what has been breaking? We might be able to suggest a better way of doing it?

16x10 is a big wheel for the front - why so wide?

You want lots of caster and camber for drifting.

I would post some pictures but i havent been near car since weekend , the bolts that im snapping are the ones that hold the steering rack onto the cross member, i beleive because we have cut the knuckles when i hit lock the ball joint is pressing hard up against thre hub which is giving stress on those bolts, we have tryed putting in stronger bolts , we were going to trill out the cross member and put bigger bolts through but than you have troubles with the bushes in the steering rack being too small, so just going too go back too normal knucles and try get as much camber / caster as possibe, what are yous doing too get these? what do yous reccomend too get the maximun caster and camber?

We had a jap car driver come too our even with a ford au stock street car, with 16x11.5 on the front and it worked but were too big but looked so fat!

Did you gain any lock by cut and shutting the knuckle? I'd suggest you did by the sounds of it.
You sure you weren't getting any bind?
Or possible tie rod touching somewhere?
Or even tyre touching inner guard area.

Did you put it on ramps and turn it lock to lock to make sure nothing is touching?

the tie rod end is hitting hard against the hub which is giving it the weak point when on full lock, how are you getting maximun castor angle?

Are you using those little extra lock spacer thingos that you slip onto the thread of the inner rack end? Maybe if you let the rack have more travel it won't punish the bolts as badly.

How much extra lock are you getting? Photos would be great