4000 stall convertor..good for track..too big for street?

by **stav** » August 13th, 2008, 8:23 pm

What do you blokes think? Is 4000 too big in a daily driver? If I do it ..will I regret this? I have a 2500 unit.What should I be looking at?

by **TUFED6** » August 13th, 2008, 8:27 pm

Go 5000. Then you will only have 500rpm of usable revs.

Plus getting in and out of carparks will be hilarious.

by **holmsy** » August 13th, 2008, 8:29 pm

lol you would certainly notice you have a stally i think

by **stav** » August 13th, 2008, 8:33 pm

It sure sounds like I will be getting certain parking spots fast

Seriously though what experience do you guys have withe the largest convertor youve had?

by **holmsy** » August 13th, 2008, 9:07 pm

well for starters isnt 4 grand a bit high?
almost jump straight past ya peek power anyway

by **blackers10** » August 13th, 2008, 10:06 pm

I have a 2800 and its great for daily driving(you can stab it to make a point/noise for parking etc hehe)
with enough poke to get me off the line fast (and tractionless on the street with my open diff)

by **tuff4.0ed** » August 13th, 2008, 10:13 pm

my xy has a 5500 converter and its still very street driveable

by **blackers10** » August 13th, 2008, 10:15 pm

what RPM does your xy rev to tho tuff4.0ed??

by **tuff4.0ed** » August 13th, 2008, 10:18 pm

8200 but, driveability all depends on how tight the converter is . it may flash to 4000 but will still be driveable much under that rpm

by **blackers10** » August 13th, 2008, 10:25 pm

spose the best thing stav could do is get a dyno print out.. take it to a torque converter specialist and say i want somthing that does XYZ and they will make what he wants to the best of their knowledge???

by **tuff4.0ed** » August 13th, 2008, 10:27 pm

just call tce they will sort you out

by **stav** » August 13th, 2008, 10:32 pm

If I can get a tight convertor at 4000 rpm then the car should do what I need..give me an awesome 60 footer.At 4000 rpm the car should be making some respectable torque for the stally to launch the darn nugget. I stll want to be practical as well. Perhaps I may be better with a 3500 unit? My best 60 footer so far has been 2.02 but that was only on one occasion. I would really like to be closer top 1.6 to 1.7 if that is possible... :?:

by **stav** » August 13th, 2008, 10:34 pm

tuff4.0ed wrote:just call tce they will sort you out

Where are they? Are they good? Any idea on dollars mate? Id appreciate it
Stav

by **tuff4.0ed** » August 13th, 2008, 10:38 pm

there in victoria but will freight anywhere there called tce (torque converter engineiring) my was $1250 built to my specs so just give them a call

by **stav** » August 13th, 2008, 10:41 pm

It should be good

by **wicksy** » August 15th, 2008, 5:25 pm

my mate has a 5000 stallie in his HQ monaro mind you it has 700hp lol

by **Rollin** » August 16th, 2008, 12:40 am

1.6 or 1.7 sec 60 is pretty quick, run me through what mods you have? The best I've ever managed with a manual on street tyres is 1.9, and they were bloody hard launches, (T5+3.9s originally, then T56+turbo+3.27s the other times) you'd need good diff gears (like 4.11s), slicks and probably more than a 4k stally on an N/A car, but then the rest of your run will probably be crap, as well as daily driving.

On a turbo car 4k is just plain silly unless you are running crazy slicks.

by **BLCKED** » August 16th, 2008, 11:14 pm

3000 is good for daily duties

my mate has a 3000 in a vs 5 litre with a come racing 200 rwk motor and it was perfect, cruised around 2500

i have a 2500 and its just to small

3000-3500 is perfect for daily driving.

you can boot it at eve 100 kms and get it sideways :0

4000 is getting pretty high

by **EBOOST** » August 19th, 2008, 9:01 pm

my au had a 3000 but giving it heaps it goes to 3500rpm and i drive it everyday but as said it is very tight and i can usually cruise around at about 2000rpm.
i like stallys but sometimes a pain in the ass (when cops are near by and u need to accel and u pretty much cant coz the car just revs).
but i think a 4000rpm stally would be streetable but not as streetable as a daily to be honest epecially in a n/a6.
cheers josh.

by **blackers10** » August 19th, 2008, 9:24 pm

but how streetable is a na6 that requires a stall that big going to be anyway...would be a pig to drive slow at the best of times

by **Revengelane** » August 20th, 2008, 12:56 pm

stav wrote:What do you blokes think? Is 4000 too big in a daily driver? If I do it ..will I regret this? I have a 2500 unit.What should I be looking at?

You can't just throw a 4000rpm stall at it, more information is needed like Rollin said mate what modifications have been done to the car.............. Details!!!

by **BLCKED** » August 20th, 2008, 5:00 pm

hold the phone

how much power does your motor have mate?

by **Ef_frmnt** » August 20th, 2008, 8:00 pm

my old car had a fair bit of work... i put a 3000 convertor in it and got 1.88 60ft on one occasion if i remember correctly. it was perfect for that car it felt like i was sidestepping a clutch... it would start slowly turning the tyres about 3100 but right on 3 would just sit there. it made my fuel bill fucking huge cos i was always fucking around and revving it up to try make some noise and move a bit.

my xe has a 2800, and has 4.11s and a locker. slicks are on their way before i take it to the track.

by **AaronEF8** » August 20th, 2008, 8:16 pm

A 3500rpm stall would be the limit I think. IMO a streetable convertor is one that will still creep forward when you take your foot off the brake, like in a parking situation or in peak hour traffic. If you have to rev the motor at all to move the car, thats when it becomes a shit to drive, braking/accelerating at the same time to park the car etc.

You'll have to adjust your driving style on the highway too, to make sure the convertor locks up when cruising. Having the convertor unlocked under 3500rpm when highway cruising will heat the trans fluid up like crazy.

Power isn't hugely important in the 60ft, where it comes on and how it gets to the wheels is where all the time is made up. I think the BTR's 2.39:1 1st gear is not suited at all to an NA 6cyl, it really needs a 4.6:1 diff to get it off the line properly, which would have it revving off its tits over the line. A 3.00:1 or similar first gear would make a lot of difference.

by **Revengelane** » August 20th, 2008, 11:08 pm

BLCKED wrote:hold the phone

how much power does your motor have mate?

I pretty sure the thread is about "4000 stall convertor..good for track..too big for street?".......................not about how much HP I have :roll:

by **BLCKED** » August 21st, 2008, 4:59 pm

Revengelane wrote:
BLCKED wrote:hold the phone

how much power does your motor have mate?

I pretty sure the thread is about "4000 stall convertor..good for track..too big for street?".......................not about how much HP I have

you clearly know nothing about stallies. if the motor dosent have the power it wont stall up to the full amount...

stallies should be matched to engine specs primarily cam.

ring joch motors in dandenong mate 03 9793 1277 my mechanic mate there Stuart is a whiz with autos, built some very tough boxes.

by **Commando** » August 21st, 2008, 6:03 pm

you clearly know nothing about stallies. if the motor dosent have the power it wont stall up to the full amount...

I'm sure Stav has a fair idea of the power output of his AU 4.0. And that he wants to know that IF he gets a 4000 stally (to suit his motor), will it be streetable.

by **AaronEF8** » August 21st, 2008, 8:16 pm

The biggest problem with having a big stall on a relatively low powered car is the stall has to be 'loose' enough to get to the stall speed of say 4000rpm, but still tight enough to creep forward when you take your foot off the brake.

I've never met too many good mechanics that are happy to spend their time on the phone explaining things for free to people that were referred to him by people over an internet forum. Said mechanics are usually too busy to breathe.

by **BLCKED** » August 21st, 2008, 8:38 pm

i meant in the intrest that my mechanic can reccomend a type and size of convertor and install it for him to make a sale

did i say he was going to give free advice?

when your 2 tonne car runs 11's and wins show n shine awards your are a good mechanic

by **Commando** » August 22nd, 2008, 7:55 am

Dammit! So THAT's why my EB looks like crap. Because I need a good mechanic to get it winning show n shine awards...

by **XRated** » August 22nd, 2008, 11:36 am

Maybe that's why you're not a (good) mechanic Dave?

by **AaronEF8** » August 22nd, 2008, 11:51 am

Cool, I'm coming along as a good mechanic then, I came 2nd in class at the first AFD I entered. Does it matter there were 3 cars in class though? One day I'll get that number one spot, then I'll be a great mechanic because jimmy said so

by **BLCKED** » August 22nd, 2008, 2:03 pm

you also need to stop being gay to have what stuart would consider a "nice" car.

by **AaronEF8** » August 22nd, 2008, 2:21 pm

Oh so Stuart decides if I am a good mechanic, based on how nice my car is?

by **BLCKED** » August 22nd, 2008, 8:35 pm

no, every one does.

good mechanics dont drive shit cars

by **Ef_frmnt** » August 24th, 2008, 8:10 pm

oh and why is that so... know all the good mechanics and their choice of vehicles do you?

by **mickyyyy** » August 24th, 2008, 8:39 pm

What engine and car do you have???

I had a 4000rpm stall on my 400hp 347 stroker EF XR8 and it drove like a normal car.

by **BLCKED** » August 24th, 2008, 9:14 pm

Ef_frmnt wrote:oh and why is that so... know all the good mechanics and their choice of vehicles do you?

i know 3 mechanics and they have good cars. 3 out of 3 is pretty good odds.

by **t1MMy** » September 3rd, 2008, 9:11 am

Damm, 4 grand stally. Should be fun in the wet trying to take off. I'm thinking you would get some looks from the police for sure if you ever pulled up next to them at the lights.

by **KR1STO** » September 3rd, 2008, 10:46 am

mate, i've got a 3500 stall in my ed 347.. good on the street... in the wet its a different story though....haha

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