Removing the dash for racing

[1kracing]

Anyone every removed the dash sections from their EB? I am keen to do it to lighten the front of the car up a bit, but i dont want to end up removing some important engine electronics. There is a fair bit of wiring back there but the car is never hitting to road again, so everything thats non essential can go.

Anyone with some tips on what stuff I can safely (for a given value of "safe") remove from the dash area while keeping the car running?

[Frost]

I would say all wires behind the dash are important. You could just make a custom mount for the speedo etc and maybe the headlight switch. and yeah if u want the heater or blower to still work for the windscreen leave the heater box in there and make a custom mount for the heater controls.

[t1MMy]

Just out of curiosity, what does a dash weigh approx?

[AaronEF8]

I've got an EF dash here and I'd say 10kg complete, the looms, cluster, BEM and metal frame is where the weight is.

Personally I'd drill holes in everything, cut every bolt short and remove the sound deadener first.

[edit] - I'd imagine you'd want to keep the heater, and especially the front demister seeing as you're in Tassie yeah? The heater box only weighs about 4kg.

[1kracing]

[edit] - I'd imagine you'd want to keep the heater, and especially the front demister seeing as you're in Tassie yeah? The heater box only weighs about 4kg.

haha... actually thats a good point, we should pull the heater box.. most of the behind dash stuff is still there.
As for the weight of the dash, its prob not massive, but it all helps, we have managed to strip well over 100kg from the car so far and no single item has been more than 15kg i think. Plus we really need to pull some weight from the front to assist the cars balance

[t1MMy]

Yer its amazing the amount of small stuff you can pull out of a car that all adds up in weight.

[thebeast.]

lol i have LPG which would add 100-200 odd KG to mine, sucks even more when gas tank and fuel tank is full

[turbodrift]

Well you could remove the whole dash, with the wiring loom in it as it all unplugs. Then remove the harness from the dash and plug it back in, securing it to the firewall with 'P' clamp or the like. Hardest part of this would be that you may need to lengthen some of the harness, but that could be as easy as making some adapter plugs. If ur using the heater box still, I'm not sure how this will affect the venting to the windscreen.

I have done something like this, although i have made my own dash and i'm rewiring the whole car from scratch only keeping head light and taillight looms. If you would like some pics to help, let me know.

[TUFED6]

Use an electric demister on the front windscreen- then you can ditch the heaterbox etc. Should be pretty cheap.

[1kracing]

Window fogging has never been an issue, so I will pull the heaterbox.

Turbodrift.. if you have any pics of what you have done I would love to see them..

[turbodrift]

Window fogging has never been an issue, so I will pull the heaterbox.

Turbodrift.. if you have any pics of what you have done I would love to see them..

Sorry it took so long. One change that i might make is to move the start button to the steering wheel.
There will be a tacho behind the wheel as well.

[1kracing]

wow, that is impressive. I knew i could take some stuff out, but that is more than I was hoping for, thats great.

Did you have any issues going from key start to push button start with the smart lock? I have converted 2 other track cars to push button starter before (http://www.1kracing.com/guide_starter.php) but I was a bit worried about doing the EB in case the smart lock meant I would ruin the lot.

[Steady]

You can just hide the barrel with the key in it somewhere.
Cheapest way of doing it.

[turbodrift]

This car started life as an EA, so no smart lock. Besides there are only 2 original looms left in the car everything else is gone, The head light loom which i cut under the relays and turned around to keep all the wires on the cold side of the engine bay, and the loom to the rear of the car with tail light and stock fuel pump wiring ,which is only to fill the surge tank. I will be running a separate loom for the 044.

So I'm guessing you are using the stock computer if your worried about smart lock? If so Steady's way would be the easiest way.

[1kracing]

yeah, the hiding the key or just attaching it elsewhere is a good idea. Ill go with that

[bluov1]

Okay in need info on something similar does any one know what needs to be hooked up to run the 4 speed auto,i will be using a microtech ltx12s computer for the engine do i still need the stock computer in place to run the trans,will the 4 speed still work without the comp and just change manually or should i just piss it off and put a c4 in and rip everything else out i have no intention of this car to ever see the road again.

[Malakai]

The BTR needs a computer either standalone or factory ECU with inbuilt trans computer.

I would go the C4 route then have the Microtech running the motor and nothing else. Take the factory ECU out altogether and that way smart lock isn't an issue anymore either.

[bluov1]

Looks like the c4 will be the go i have a windsor one here was just hoping to be able to kill the 2 btrs that i have first then when cash allows put the c4 in, i will be stripping it like the car above but am leaving the dash crash pad ect in the car.

[SNR]

You could just hook up the Trans Computer from an EA, they're located near the handbrake in an EA and would be cheap as chips from wreckers (make sure it's a 4spd auto as the 3spds didn't need a TCU)

These will control any of the later BTR's from what I can tell and will allow you to kill your BTR's first. Do a shift kit while your at it and the box should last longer too.

[bluov1]

I am using a Ea with a btr have seen a module up under the dash which i am in the process of removing what extenal wiring does it require just power and what ever wires that run to the trans? was just going to give the trans a service and increase the pressure on the solenoids for a firm shift

[AaronEF8]

Seperate BTR TCU's still need an ECU to run, the TCU gets the RPM, TPS, speed, temp etc signals from the ECU, which you could probably get from the Microtech with a lot of dicking around.

I reckon your best bet would be to get hold of a Ford workshop manual and have a look what inputs/outputs the TCU and ECU need.

You would be better off selling the V8 BTRs instead of trying to break them. If you can prove they're in 1/2 decent condition you'll get $350-$400 ish for them without any worries. That should pay for the C4 and all the parts needed for the conversion, which just leaves you with the rebuild and stall costs of the C4.

[bluov1]

Bugger had a glimmer of hope killing the btrs i already have a windsor c4 which has a shift kit and kevlar bands just have to source the bellhousing from dellow and get a convertor and tail shaft made up.