Boosted Falcon

NUT347 wrote:Love how this orangeute dude compares every setup to another.

I agree a 9:1 idle is suss, but **** this cvnt can whinge.

why whats so different? i ran a barra off a stock au ecu, he has a barra running off a stock ecu? other people have run then off au ecu. i cant see how they are different setups?

misk wrote:i'm all ears people. tell me what this mystical problem is and i shall sleigh it like the evil beast it is!

is the afr gauge working properly?

are you sure the fuel pressure is correct? try the au reg you know was working fine.

are you using a innovate wideband? i have a innovate lm2 and when i had the old battery in the au it was reading 7s at idle because wasnt getting enough power to the unit.

lol farkin hell...

one more time, i don't see how tuning an ECU to suit the motor is the incorrect thing to do...
its possible i have the narrow band sim settings incorrect, either way, if the closed loop worked, i would still disable it to tune the thing first.
i plugged it in for a bit, it didn't do what everyone was saying it would, so i unplugged it again cause i haven't finished tuning.

why the **** are we again, going on about something over and over and over and over when there is no fucking reason to?

i'm so happy that everyone has a car that has a correctly operating open loop mode.
really, its great.
it means nothing to me what so ever.

if my fuel pressure reg is too high, so be it.
i'll check it tomorrow just to tickle your fancy.

any other 'problems' for me to check?

maybe you guys can all start a separate thread for this fantastic discussion...

now, the one reply i see worth responding to...
josh, i believe i will get better fuel economy simply because i'm going to spend more time on this tune than i have any previous efforts.
it should do the same or perhaps slightly better (if it makes more power, easier, on standard cams) than the standard motor if i put in as much effort tuning that motor.

it should get economy on par with a BA i reckon, seeing as its lighter and i'm adding some timing etc, the non VCT will be the only thing that would effect it in a negative way vs a BA

Have you checked your plugs?

im just going to assume you're taking the piss lol.
but cause someone may have missed it... i replaced the plugs today, all the plugs that came out are evenly colored.

Misk your clearly in over you head. I think you need orange Ute dude to come sort it out for you..

Lol someone does the conversion and there car runs fine... yours is rich as fark... but there's no problems!

Good luck with your economy

lol **** man i can only say the same shit so many times.
do you expect my closed loop to be working magically if its not connected? i've said that my closed loop probably didn't work when i did connect it, so i disconnected it cause i hadn't actually tuned eveyrthing yet!
and would you seriously do an engine conversion without tuning the ecu to suit the new engine?

what the **** is going on here...
i've had enough of forums for the moment... gonna take a few days break before i kill myself or someone else from fear of being that retarded **** on the internet.

Have you checked the oxygen sensor?

justa6 wrote:Misk your clearly in over you head. I think you need orange Ute dude to come sort it out for you..

he couldnt afford me lol

i will gladly get closed loop working, just tell me what to check...
the sensor is fine, tps voltage is correct, CHT sensor is working, my narroband output is working and is in the right pin, i don't know what esle to check from there...

the tune is good though, apart from one or two random spots that are around the 10:1 mark most of the map is above 13:1 in cruise and no richer than 12 at wot, so i'll just keep touching it up here and there.

NUT347 wrote:Aren't the x series (excluding XH) a bit tricky with the sway bar?

forgot to reply to this
you can just make up a spacer out of square bar steel, actually really easy.

whats it do down the 1/4?

what? the xh?
will be a while before i go to the drags man lol
i can do a 0-100 if you like?

dont you have any strips close?

im on the opposite side of the city, guess its not that far, but id only take it after its turboed or just before i turbo it.

i also realised i didn't plug the knock sensor in, so that may be a reason that its not going into closed loop, either way, i'm still tuning the car to be as close as i can without closed loop.

it did add some timing when i connected it, car feels stronger to drive.
i'll connect the laptop and see whats happening.

how do you log timing?

going to the drags is a good way to see what sort of power its making and how fast it really is, street always feels faster because more dangerious and risky. i gota go 1400ks to go racing so otherside of the city isnt much;)

im not logging timing just yet but my data logger does do it, need to find my timing light so i can set it up.
it uses the signal from either the crank or cam sensor to determine TDC and then calculates how far after that the spark happens on one cylinder.

do you have to wire it into the coil pack too so it knows when it has sparked?

newer cars are so much easier, i just use bluetooth dongle and my fone in the ute and just see anything i need while driving. zook is the same. makes easy to dial in the closed loop fuel trims also

yeah im gonna have another crack at getting my obd working later today.
really can't find a reason that it won't work, but it doesn't connect to the odb so no idea.

and the datalogger is logging rpm atm already so it uses that as the spark feed.

i dont think obd work with them. even the xcal doesnt work properly, you can log rpm and a few things but the rest dont work properly.

i just was told something about the cam timing maps. in the tables in hp they are opposite. so -9 is 9deg advanced and vice versa. so makes more sense now why when i adjusted them on the ute they were doing the opposite to what they should.

so what does that mean for me having the cams at 2.5* retarded, do you mean they are actually advanced?

no just that table i sent you with the stock cam timing tables its back to front. so

oh ok, that wont effect me in any way.
i've done some more tuning and the car is quite a bit faster. its as fast or faster than with the sohc motor running the 1521a.

there seems to be an issue with power under 3800rpm, when the butterflies open the difference is so big, its crazy!
i'll try get a video.
also i ended up having 99.5-100 in the VE table at WOT in the upper RPM even with the injector slope as low as 16.3lb, so i've given my BA injectors to CVE to do a reco/clean on them and i'll install them tomorrow so i have more headroom.

i'm not sure if its making enough power to run out of injector, maybe the injectors are a bit clogged, but its very strong to drive now which is a good thing!

i'll also be fitting the LS1 tb in the next few days to see if that helps balance things out a bit, just see what effect it has really.

fuel wise, i got 250ks to 50l lol, which is woeful, but, that does include all the time i spent tuning the car, which was basically just full throttle runs 99% of the time. so there wasn't that much actual 'driving' done, and when i did drive, the car was driven hard lol.

i'm confident that with the recoed injectors and a good ve/timing map it will improve.

forgot, i also picked up a scuba LPG tank that will be mounted under the tray, i can run twin gas outlets and lines if i wish, but for now i'll just be using it for LPG injection.
i need to find or buy 3 more injectors than it will be sweet.
petrie is gonna give me a hand in terms of telling me what to buy and what to fit so it will pass an inspection when i want it done.

so at least it will run a tiny bit cheap using LPG.

It does if you want to set it up properly. If you turbo it then it makes a pretty big difference. Even setting them to 0 like I have atm you can feel the difference. I reckon if you can setup something up to adjust the cams according to rpm would make a difference. You could even give more overlap at higher rpm and keep it sensible down low something ba can't do since the cams are locked together.

Did some more research and think I had it all wrong with the cams thinking 1 tooth is 6 and 2 are -2.5. I assumed the sprockets could have 15 deg advance and 15 retard. But I think it's only 5deg advance and 25deg retard. So doing 1 tooth would be about 2.5 deg retard and 2 teeth about 10deg. Which is double in the tune.

You should have a play with different positions see if it makes it better. I think the 2 teeth worked well on mine because it ran nos and the retard works well with nos. When I ran it atmo was only half a second quicker then stock.

hmm maybe. it does rev to 6 grand and still make good power lol!
i have my limiter at 6 and it will hit it doing a slide or something no worries.
i could use some extra torque down low.

can you do the swap without taking the timing case off?

Good day guys, been followibg this thread lately lovin the work definitely worth 2 thumbs. any chance you could shed some light ecu wise with the conversion? i got an eb fairmont and scored a barra motor cheap as and wanna do whats been done, any tips??

i would go an EF ECU if i did it again, much simpler.
i did the AU ECU so i could use OBD shit but in the end that didnt work lol.

i am now putting in a BF ECU so i can have dual VCT and will be use VCM suite to tune it as i need the vcm suite to tun eth eLS1 in the R33.
should be here in a week or two so i'll grab a BF loom and go for it.

just so sick of the J3 and the ECu not doing what it should be.
evyer time i go to put in a few hours to tune the **** it fucked up in some random way haha.
its running ok atm, going to put in a few hours tuning it over the next day or two only so it doesn tuse 20l per 50k like it has been.

now i was going to ask this on facebook, but its becoming increasingly more apparent that there is only one or two knowledgeable people on all of facebook and i didn't want to give anyone else a stroke...

can the ba/bf dash fascia be installed in an ef/el dash?
and what do you get in terms of information on the lcd screens?
is there a difference or benefit in going either BA or BF, or do i need to go BF if i go BF ECU?
will the fascia run without the BCM?

i do google before i post, i do, but its hard to google for some things as the words will never quite match what i'm asking.

for anyone else reading this thread that is thinking of doing a barra conversion with a ba/bf/fg ecu, this may be helpful:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0By4Y2AO ... edit?pli=1

im pretty sure the cluster is smaller and you end up with gaps i remember someone did a pretty good job of making it look good

hmm, i'll try borrow one to take a look.

i guess it would be a nice touch to have the upgraded cluster.
would match the seats and blue led shit thats already in there.

Bbqburner put the BA cluster in his EL.

swee,t i was going to read through is thread anyway so i'll check it out.

so for the conversion, i'm thinking i need:
BF ECU and loom
accel pedal
throttle body

i have coils and everything else, is there something i'm forgetting though?
i wont need the bcm will i?

misk wrote:so for the conversion, i'm thinking i need:
BF ECU and loom
accel pedal
throttle body

i have coils and everything else, is there something i'm forgetting though?
i wont need the bcm will i?

Pretty sure if you disable PATS you don't need BCM.

Hi mate, Love the writeup! I think I've just found what I'm going to do to my XH thanks to you! I was just wondering, how do I tell which pins I have to cut off the cam? Do I have to modify any plugs to fit the AU ecu, or will it plug straight in? And is there any other mods to the wiring I have to do? Any mods you would recommend for the fuel system?
Many thanks in advance, I just hope I don't annoy people with too many questions I'm used to working on John Deere tractors, so this is a bit different!
Again, Many thanks, John E

hey mate you need to keep the middle pin of the 3 that are closest together, the one that triggers TDC.
and no mods to fuel system etc, fitting the AU ecu is a separate issue, easiest to just use a full engine loom but re-pinning is still piss easy.

i eventually just fitted the BF ECU and elec throttle in this and fark it goes way harder! i'll be fitting an FG intake and extractors to aim for 200rwkw and hopefully keep some decent down low torque for towing my drift cars.
otherwise the ute is still samesame. im fitting the EL XR6 front this week cause the standard bar fell off and im doing some work on the audio fitting some 6.5" splits and dynamatting the doors and interior to quieten it down and lessen vibrations.
still keen to put in a black EF dash but will happen in time, hope to get some stability and a new routine when i move later this week.

sorry i havent been around lol, hope i didn't miss anything epic?

Howd you get a speedo in the BF ecu?

Good to see you back though man, hope things are looking up.