Boosted Falcon

Hey ford fans. I've got an Ea Falcon that I'm going to be giving a thrash at the track.
Here is what I've got so far

Ef engine conversion
Manual conversion
Extractors
2-1/2 exhaust
LSD
Super low king springs and Monroe shocks
New tie rods and ends
New upper and lower ball joints
Spare set of mags

The previous owner did the conversions and the steering wheel, then they drove it like they stole it :p
So I had to replace horn lights bushings tie rods before it could get a roadworthy.

What I will/want to be doing to it.
New sway bar link pins
Hydraulic handbrake
Clutch upgrade
Big front sway bar
Au upper arms and camber shim kit
Short stroke shocks





More photos on photobucket if you click a pic.

Just need to torque wrench it all tomorrow and then get it registered hopefully next week

Finally got her registered today. Had to wait for the rego to run out since I couldn't get the plates off old mate
Now I've got to get a wheel alignment then I've got two nights to practice driving it before the track on Thursday :p
I haven't mentioned this is my first manual car so it's going to be interesting.

Michael didn't build that thing, I did. It was mint when I had it. I'll find a thread here somewhere.

It's got a 977b cam aswell.

Hi nut347. I wondered if I might find someone who recognized it, didn't expect to find the builder though. Would love to see a thread.
How long ago Did you own it?

So she didn't like her first drive. There is now a terrible sound coming from the rockers. Found out the oil I just put in which super cheap recommended (15-60 penrite) is apparently to thick so dropped that out and put 10 - 40 in and it still sounds like a bag of nails.
So tomorrow after work going to check the oil pressure and or check inside the rocker cover for wear. Hopefully not the oil pump but I guess that's probably it.

probably just a fucked lifter?

If "lifter" is a rocker...? I hope it's something that simple

Haha thanks Nut. At least she knows what she in for :p

depending on km, how it is driven and oil consumption over a set amount of kms, I would either be using 15w40 or 20w50. 10w40 is probably a little thin, but should be fine.

There engines have hydraulic lifters and they are in the rocker arms, you will usually get a sticky one, and they make a ticking sound. If it goes away after a few seconds, it just drained the oil out of it, if not then it could be a dead lifter.

15w60 is hpr15 yeah?
If so that's fine imo.

Were you giving it a hard time when it started ticking?

What noise is it actually making?

It's making an intense ticking noise. Metal on metal sort of thing. Nah I was going steady to get the wheel alignment. It had the 15-60 oil at the time

My mate had a cruise around today looking for a pressure tester, he recons there is way to much noise for a failed lifter, would have to be all of them failing.
No pressure testers about so organizing a mechanic to come test the pressure for $60, that guy thinks since the oil was filthy maybe the mesh at the pump might be clogged.
If the pressure is fucked we are just going to hire a crane and drop a new engine in coz it will be cheaper than taking her to shop for a pump clean.

NUT347 wrote:Michael didn't build that thing, I did. It was mint when I had it. I'll find a thread here somewhere.

It's got a 977b cam aswell.

Hey NUT347 I'm helping with this car.
When you did the engine conversion did you just use the EA ECU and loom?

Yeah mate stock ECU and loom, stock intake and injectors, XH tensioner and EF aircon pump/powersteer/water pump.

XH snorkel etc.

When I had it had a brand new waterpump, aircon pump, powersteering pump, upper and lower thermostat, brand new XH tensioner, that motor has a steel head gasket and a 977b cam.

Where are you guys located? I could have a look at the engine if you want.

With regards to the oil pressure sender, it has the EF one. So the gauge doesn't work properly. I didn't get around to swapping it before I sold it.

Thanks Nut.
The car is in kangaroo point at the moment. If your keen and want to swing by and have a look tomorrow arvo, but it might not be worth your time. how far away are you? Ill be with it at about 4:30 with the mechanic.

A bare long motor with 140k's from the wreckers is 395 with a 3 month warranty, +$150 for fluids +crane hire seems like a good option.

Hey NUT347 thanks for the info on the conversion will make our lives a lot easier, should we do Another transplant. Just a question tho in regards to a/c compressor and a system discharge. (Assuming the system is gassed.) how exactly does one go about removing/fitting a a/c compressor? With safety
(Not so much EPA) in mind? (A swell as keeping system in function at a later date? Y

I would remove the compressor from the motor and leave it in the bay with the lines connected.

The AC was fully redone when I had it, I spent heaps on it lol.

If you're going to do a motor swap put an AU engine in for sure. Plenty of threads around on this site to help you along. I'd leave the log manifold on it too if you plan to turbo it.

Thanks again NUT. Seems obvious now. I may be over thinking things lol. If the conversion is a go(which I will know tomorrow) we will just be sticking another EL motor in it. Just to keep it hassle free, cheap as possible and within a short time frame. Have sourced a nice low k motor already.

Why keep log manifold over BBM for turbo application? The only reason I can think is a nice short flowing cooler piping route. And I guess when your boosted the long runner/short runner thing is kind of obsolete.

Hey guys. Picked up the engine last week.
Chazo and I did the conversion yesterday. Only took 16 hours :p and it managed to start straight away but it was already midnight so we called it quits. We came back to it thisarvo with better light to see the results.

So after starting it last night and it sounding very lumpy we went and bought a base timing light and got straight into that, it worked in the sense that it was lined up to specifications but the engine idle was still lumpy.
Its Also running very rich, black smoke from the exhaust and even some sprays of oil straight out of it.

Decided to take it for a short drive and it ran rich the whole time. Then when it got back to idle it just stopped firing and wouldnt start again. The engine is trying to turn over but seems like there is just no fuel there.
Put some more fuel in it - no results.
Tried fiddling with the dizzy, thought it could have shifted on the drive and changed the timing - no results
Last thought was it could have just been flooded from revving the shit out of it... but it started pissing down and we had to call it quits again.

Thinking there might be a problem with the injectors or something around there as the old engine ran rich too. but we really aren't sure at this stage.

Took a bunch of photos. Please excuse the ghetto worksite :p

Did you plug the vacuum back in for the map sensor??

No we didn't!!! Just figured that one out.
That will explain the rough running!

But now it's just dead. Will crank over fine. But no fire.
I have checked fuel pump relay, pump, plugs and leads. It's getting spark (tested leads agains block) I also jumped it off another car voltmeter reading 14v
It was driving for about 2mins running like $hit(with Map vac not connected)
then just died.
I pulled dizzy cap off and put no1 at TDC. The dizzy rotor was nowhere near either start or finish marks.
Does this indicate anything?

Plugs will be fouled mate.

Pull the plugs and clean them.

Done that already. Still no fire.
I've been fiddling around with the dizzy a bit blindly adjusting it in small amounts.
I can get it to make a few small explosions but not enough to fully run.
To me it seems the timing is too far out.

Also the map vac is not on yet as I snapped the nipple off the sensor.
But would that be enough to make it not start at all.

Conected Map sensor normally helps a lot lol I couldn't get mine going with out starting spray then it would just die... Then I realized that Map vac was not connected

It was pretty silly of us. Probly would be sweet now if it had been connected. But now it's got an electrical fault which we can hear near or at the dizzy that makes the fuel relay click and pump activate when the dizzy is moved. Engine turns over but won't fire at all :s

Is this normal? So turn ignition on, fuel pump and relay click and prime as normal.
When we rotatie dizzy as if adjusting base time. (With ignition still on)
The fuel pump relay clicks and pump primes again. And a small clich is herd around the dizzy area.
(Edit - spoke to a auto sparky and he said it is normal. I don't quite understand why tho.)

So today we cleaned all spark plugs, pulled dizzy out and aligned rotor to no1 lead at TDC.
Still no fire even after a bit of dizzy adjusting while cranking.

It still makes spark (lead against block)
Could a faulty or dead coil/tfi/dizzy still produce spark but not enough ignite?
It went from running to dead. The new motor was also sitting for a year before we got it.

Injectors pulseing?

I know NUT347 has said it above ^ but if the map is not plugged in it will inject to much fuel. Especially when cold and it will foul the plugs just enough while cranking.

Injectors are pulsing.
Plugs have been cleaned.
Map sensor connected.
Swapped out coil, dizzy and fti with known working parts
Aux shaft fine.

Still no fire.
Really stumped and frustrated!
Is there any simple wiring failure that could cause it to not start?
Strange for it it run then just die.
I'm think it's about time to get a mechanic or sparky round.

if the earth straps are not all on it will have issues. Even known working dizzy can have issues in another car. If you are going to replace the dizzy it is best to replace with a new one

After all this time she is finally running again. The new coil I bought of ebay was a dud and the dizzy timing was way off. So stocked that I can FINALLY drive it.

Miss this thing, was so tidy for an EA.

Chuck some pics up mate.

Shes not so mint anymore, got a bunch of dints and a smashed windscreen in the hail storm about a month back. But the interior is still nice, installed a horn button where the arial switch was and a new water temp gauge.
Went for a spin at Archy on thursday night. Had alot of fun ripping skids and learning how to handle it. Didnt get to learn too much though, popped the radiator about an hour in to it. Lucky my mate is parting out his el, had to replace the alternator as well.
no videos yet but maybe next time :p

Oh man

I've got an "adrad" 3 core in perfect condition for 50 bucks if you want it - I'm on the south side of Brisbane.

pm'd you rollin

Managed to fix the radiator yesterday.

I just squeezed all that metal "clamping" stuff as the plastic part had just expanded out from the metal part. Not sure what to call it. But i could see where it had bent out of shape. Wish i did it at the track and saved myself $120 :s .
So now im guessing that once the pressure goes up at about 110 its just going to do this again?

Hi guys.
Just swapped the 977b from Nuts old engine.
I kept the rocker assembly that was already in the engine rather than taking the one from the previous engine.
While I was doing it a few of the lifters fell out from the rocker ends so I just popped them back in before I bolted it back up...
No troubles with timing chain, used a ratchet strap over the bonnet
I did however snap one of the bolts in the rocker assembly took the snapped off top part out and just kept on torque wrenching the others.
It didnt sound great at first, bit rattly. Took the cover off and oiled everything up and realised i forgot to torque the cam bolt :s . now she sounds great and runs great too.

Should I have swapped the rocker assembly too?? maybe it was modified to suite the cam??