CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

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CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby SnyperEB » July 15th, 2007, 10:48 pm : robert21, stevotas23 Likes this post

CFI to MPFI Tutorial

In this, we will guide you through steps to take to turn your car from CFI (Center Fuel Injection) to MPFI (Multipoint Fuel Injection).

CFI was used on Series 1 EA's to Series 1 EB's, not all were CFI, as MPFI was an optinal for S-Pacs Fairmonts and Fairlanes , Series 2 EBs and onwards would only have MPFI.

What is the Difference between CFI and MPFI?

Center Fuel Injectionwas a Delivered threw and Intake Manifold Carby where it would be distributed threw all 6 Cylinders, this method was a very Ecconomical way of delivery fuel to the Piston Cylinders.
Multipoint Fuel Injection was a more reliable way of delivery fuel to the Pistion Cylinders, Injectors were attatched to the top of the manifold for each Cylinder, Fuel would be Sprayed in a Sequence into the Cylinder.

What Parts are needed?

MPFI Intake Manifold
Fuel Rail
6 x Injectors
MPFI Fuel Pump*
TPS
ISC
Air Temprature Sensors.
MPFI A/C Compressor Bracket*
Gasket sealant. Commonly Gasket Goo
Intake Manifold Gasket.
You could get an MPFI dizzy, but I have never had an issue with it in all the conversions I've done. Just use the CFI dizzy.

*A/C compressor bracket off MPFI (EA/ED only) as the compressor must be moved down to clear the manifold. Make sure to get the two bolts, which hold it onto the block!

A spare pin to go in the computer loom (female) side of the manifold plug (I will refer to this plug assembly from now on as the 'main' plug). Plus about a metre of wire, salvaged from the same loom, as the pin is easiest.

*A MPFI fuel pump - get the right pump for the manifold as the fuel rail pressures vary between models.

MPFI brake booster hose (EA-ED), EA/ED breather hose (back of rockercover to throttle body), and an appropriate MAP sensor hose.

you wil also needed is a length of 5/8 heater hose, 1m is sufficient, measuring anyway is recommended, and if you want the metal pipes. One runs round the back of the motor and the other comes out of the thermostat housing. The back pipe is not really necessary, but the front one will require bending to fit around the new manifold.

The MPFI manifold loom. Now be careful with this, there are several differences between models. Most Falcons have a little pink wire which connects to the dizzy at the front of the manifold. If you have it, MAKE SURE THE NEW LOOM DOES! If you don't have it, I don't remember that it matters overmuch. Sometimes the pins inside the main loom plug are arranged in a different order. This is not very common and I don't know why, however I have seen it twice before. The other major difference is in the shape of the TPS and ISC plugs.
On the ED, EF, and EL, the plugs are a different shape to the earlier models. If you are fitting an EF or EL manifold, you will require an ED loom. You will also need to swap the EF/EL ISC plug onto your ED loom.

What Tools will you need?

• Hammer!
• Socket set, universal joint and lots of extensions.
• Paint pen, permo or something.
• Medium Phillips and flathead screwdrivers.
• Set of Allen(hex) keys.
• Big screwdriver or other lever.
• Vice grips.
• Knife/straight razor.
• Wire cutters/scissors, or, use the knife.
• Soldering iron, solder, and Electrical Tape.
• Voltmeter/Continuity tester, if you have one.
• Paperclip, jeweller's screwdriver, pin, something to operate the little plastic clips which hold the pins into the main loom plug.

Image

This is the Paitent, a 91 EB GLi. Now, Before you start, this is important!

NOTE: The first thing you'll want to do is check the dizzy won't foul on the new manifold.
If it does, it's going to get complicated. I'll put that explanation at the end as it'll be quite long and will break the flow. Refer there now if you have this problem

You need to undo the two fuel lines from the carby. Mark which is which. If you lose them the fuel filter is on the inlet hose.

Unplug the spark plug leads from the plugs, be sure to mark them.

Image

Undo the main plug and the square 4-pin plug next to it. Undo the coil, suppressor, oil sensor, and where fitted, the little pink wire at the front. Also undo the gearbox plug (4-speed only) from the secondary TPS sensor, and the ISC plug.

Undo the brake booster hose, vacuum supply hoses, and MAP sensor hose.

Undo the accelerator cable, and kickdown (3-speed only)

Unbolt the flange holding the metal pipe into the thermostat housing, and the flange holding the Y-shaped piece of pipe into the back of the manifold. These pipes are easiest to remove later on.

Unbolt the support for the dipstick, then pull out the whole dipstick tube.

Undo the purge canister hose (orange, underneath the manifold), the breather hose off the back of the rockerbox, and the PCV hose.

Undo the bolts holding the manifold on, completely removing all except one top one at each end. Then, supporting the manifold, remove the top bolts.

Image

Image

Now that the manifold is free, it will be easier to pull the metal pipes out, which are likely to prove very stiff. Vice grips and a big screwdriver (lever) seem to work the best. Twisting helps too.

Preparing the engine bay

First things first, let's look at the wiring. If you're lucky, you have a manual or 3-speed and your job is easy. If you have a 4-speed it's a bit harder.

The first bit of wiring, common to both, is to cut the grey/white wire about an inch away from the idle motor plug. Extend it up to the computer loom part of the main loom plug, cut to length and add the pin on the end. Then put it into the plug so that it corresponds with the grey/white wire on the MPFI loom. While you're messing about in the plug, make sure all the other wires correspond correctly.

Then, ONLY if you have a 4-speed, peel about 1/2 an inch of insulation - without cutting the wires! - off the three TPS wires in the manifold loom, a few inches before the main loom plug. These wires are green/black, black/white, and orange/black.

Cut the *gearbox* TPS plug off the old CFI manifold loom, leaving as much wire on the plug as possible. Now wire it up to the stripped wires. It should have a black, a green, and an orange wire. These correspond to the TPS wire colours.

You will also want to disconnect the heater hose from the metal pipe round the back of the motor, as it'll have to go between the new manifold's runners (only if it's an EA-ED one).

Unbolt the a/c compressor and install the bracket for it, then bolt it back on in the new, low position (again, EA/ED only).

These are the old brackets you need to change these.

Carefully scrape the remains of the old gasket away with the razor blade.

If you're making your own gasket, fold the cornflakes packet open and place it over the CFI manifold where the gasket should go. Make holes for the bolts and slide them into the holes so that they hold the gasket down.

Next, use the hammer to gently but firmly tap around the outside of the manifold so as to cut the cardboard to shape. Use the knife for tricky spots. Then use the knife to do the inside. Once you have your gasket, position it on the MPFI manifold and cut out the bits where the injectors go.

It's not a bad idea to clean the bay up while it's empty....

Image

Installing the new manifold
First, make sure it's fully assembled, except for the fuel rail/injectors. If it's an EF/EL manifold, take the throttle body off, being careful not to damage the gasket.

Lower the manifold into the bay.

Feed the heater hose through between 5 and 6 runners (EA only; EF the hose just goes under the manifold) and reconnect it to the metal pipe. I generally find that it I don't use sealant, these hoses will leak no matter how tight they are.

It will also be a really good idea to connect the coil, suppressor, and oil sender at this time - they will be VERY DIFFICULT later if it's an EA manifold.

Feed the plug leads through the manifold between 2 and 3 runners. Leave them loose for the minute.

Plug in the little pink wire and feed the fuel lines up between the manifold and bulkhead so you won't have to search for them later.

Smear some sealant on the end of the metal hose from the thermostat and push it back in. Just secure the bolt loosely for the minute.

Now put the length of 5/8 hose on the Y-shaped bit you disconnected from the CFI manifold. Again, use sealant. Run the pipe around the outside of the manifold to the thermostat metal pipe, and make the metal pipe fit around the manifold Be careful not to bend it too far at one time, or you'll kink the metal.

Now secure the manifold loosely with a bolt through the top at each end. Put the gasket in now. Make sure all the plugs are connected and the fuel lines up, then put the rest of the bolts in loosely before you tighten ANY. This is because the gasket can slide down so that some bolts won't go in. If this happens and you tighten it up, you'll be undoing a lot of bolts to fix it - and swearing a lot too.

Now connect the main plug and the little 4-pin square plug next to it. Also the gearbox plug if you have it. Do the pink wire too so we don't forget it.

Connect the new brake booster hose, the vacuum supply hoses, the breather hose, and the new MAP sensor hose. *WARNING* Only do this now if it's an EA manifold, if it's EF then wait until the fuel rail's in!

Then do the purge canister and PCV hoses.

Image

Next do the fuel rail. Lubricate the O-rings on the injectors with a little clean engine oil before installation. Make sure to fit and tighten the fuel lines before bolting the rail down. On both MPFI manifolds, the dipstick is secured to a fuel rail bolt. If you're using the CFI dipstick, bend it carefully to fit.

You may notice that your new loom has a little grey or grey/blue wire with a brass loop on the end. This is an earth wire, earth it by putting one of the fuel rail bolts through it. Or manifold bolts, depending on where it stretches to.

In the case of the EF manifold, this is when you install the throttle body and vacuum hoses.

Now hook up the accelerator cable and kickdown if you have it. Double-check the throttle is opening fully.

Top up the water.
Starting the car

Switch the key on, but do not engage the starter. Wait for the fuel pump to finish priming. Do this a few times to remove air from the line. After that, it should start fine. Double-check for vacuum and water leaks.

Take it for a drive to get it warm, then check for water leaks again. In the case of the 4-speed, if it won't kick down you most likely wired up the gearbox TPS switch wrong.

Moving Distrubutor PLugs Around

OK if you had troubles with your dizzy position here's what you do.

Going off the plug leads on top of the dizzy, mark one of the leads. Now determine how many leads you have to move it so that it's out of the way, and one of the leads is exactly where the marked one was.

Now being careful not to lose the order, change the position of the marked lead on the dizzy cap until the marked lead is on the post now occupying it's old position. Move the other leads accordingly. This should render the timing similar to what it was. Try to run the engine.
If it runs, but badly, loosen the retaining clip and slowly twist it until the engine runs at its fastest speed. Keep it at idle.

If you had to move the leads, and now the car won't start, you are going to have to do a 'static time'.

The diistrubutor spins clockwise. The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.

Find lead 1 and note where it is relative to the distributor body. Now take the rotor cap off and crank the motor until the timing notch meets the '0' indicator on the timing cover. This is TDC or Top Dead Centre. If you can't spin it with the belts, the bolt in the balancer is a 22mm socket.

Since the motor reaches TDC twice in a single cycle, you are looking at TDC at either the end of the compression stroke, when it should fire, or the end of the exhaust stroke, when it should not fire.

OK now if the rotor button is close to your number 1 lead, twist the dizzy to meet it. If not, rotate the motor until it hits TDC again. Is it any closer? If so, twist the dizzy to meet it.
Then put the cap back on and try to start it again. If it starts, twist the dizzy until it runs properly.

Image

Now you can keep up with the N/A boys! Up the back.
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby Commando » June 3rd, 2008, 6:06 pm

Moved to Tutorials section
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby graham_h » December 4th, 2008, 2:16 pm

does this increase performance ?
Anyone in QLD able to do mine ?
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby impraven » December 7th, 2008, 7:08 pm

Nice write up! I did this conversion to one of my old EA's, It literally doubled in performance...
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby graham_h » December 7th, 2008, 7:51 pm

impraven wrote:Nice write up! I did this conversion to one of my old EA's, It literally doubled in performance...


seriously ?

you have pics of your set up ?
I'm keen as to get it done if its worth the effort.
Cheers
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby impraven » December 9th, 2008, 9:29 pm

Nah man that car is long gone... Some things that also helped alot too was getting the injectors recod and a new fuel pump. But yeah definately a massive gain...
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby psychotic-angel » January 6th, 2009, 7:05 pm

how much does this conversion cost?
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby SNR » January 6th, 2009, 8:30 pm

Depends what the wreckers charge you for bits, most would be just throwing the MPFI shit in the compactor eventually these days so probably get away with it pretty cheaply especially if you can pull it all out yourself.

under $400 easily should cover it

19kw over CFI as per the factory specs of MPFI vs CFI, definitely well worth it

Unless you want to skip about eleventy steps and put in a whole EL motor with BBM, EL ECU and smartlock bypass?
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby SnyperEB » January 7th, 2009, 8:08 am

I did this conversion for under a $100. Alot of people on here are wrecking out mpfi cars send pm's and source the best prices before commiting to buying anything.
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby psychotic-angel » January 8th, 2009, 1:52 pm

ok cool thanks guys,im not the best with cars but my dads a mechenic so ill get him to help me
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby SnyperEB » January 8th, 2009, 1:55 pm

You can do it in a couple of hours if you set ya mind to it and not muck around. We had a bbq at the same time and just sat around and had a laugh. If ya start at around 10am you could have it finished by 3pm. Its not that hard, not that I did mine anyways................
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby Sunboost » January 12th, 2009, 10:20 pm

Dang who wrote the first few para's, I could hardly make any sense of it!
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby SnyperEB » January 13th, 2009, 5:12 pm

Was not me lol!
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby graham_h » January 13th, 2009, 7:58 pm

ok so maybe a re write to make it easier for us all to understand ?? :mrgreen:
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby SnyperEB » January 13th, 2009, 8:05 pm

It aint that hard to Understand is it?
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby my5.0l » February 28th, 2009, 8:05 pm

if you have a ea 3.9 cfi can you still use its computer or do you need the mpfi computer? i just brought a ea 3.9 cfi manual for a run around thanx for any info
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby Bazza J » March 25th, 2009, 5:22 pm

you can use the CFI ecu but it will run like a dog, it woul be better finding a MPI ecu and using that when you convert
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby huggiebear » November 17th, 2009, 3:38 pm

idle motor plug


what the fucks a idle motor? im doing this conversion today and need to know where this grey wire is (EB I CFI 4 speed)
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby SNR » November 18th, 2009, 11:31 am

it's the motor on the CFI manifold just under the throttle/in almost the same spot - it lets air thru to keep the car running when you aren't giving it any throttle.
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby huggiebear » November 18th, 2009, 1:54 pm

cheers, i actually worked it out, but its not a motor lol soo many things that this tutorial is missing. but hey its better then nothing, just needs more pics
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby SNR » November 18th, 2009, 6:19 pm

It's an electric (dc) motor in the CFI car I think. Pretty sure it's just a solenoid in the MPFI setup
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby huggiebear » November 18th, 2009, 6:37 pm

yeah got it sorted cheers guys. tho it still isnt running, there is that damn missing red wire... i remember that wire from last time i done the conversion (4 years ago) but there wasnt a doco then so we had to strip 2 looms and play spot the difference... im over it allready lol
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby huggiebear » November 18th, 2009, 6:44 pm

actually re-reading this doco thats the 1 important thing missing... if you DONT have the red wire in the car side of the loom you will need to add another pin and strip some of the car side loom towards the motor untill you can see the red wire thicker then the others, this wire starts as 1 wire and splits into 3 or 4, tap into this wire and run it up to the plug and that should sort that issue.
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby SNR » November 20th, 2009, 10:49 am

I've done two of these and never had that problem?
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby huggiebear » November 20th, 2009, 12:53 pm

i have now done 2 aswell, we had the same issue on both.

the only issue we are having is coughing and spluttering (but seeing as tho the parts havnt been used in a few years we believe its just cleaning itself out as its slowly getting better. apart from that its overfueling like a bitch
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby SNR » November 24th, 2009, 6:20 pm

Sounds more like timing is out. Did you have to change the dizzy position?
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby huggiebear » November 27th, 2009, 3:18 pm

its been through 3 dizzy's now, tried replacing the whole loom but could only get our hands on a sedan and fairlane loom so the fuel pump plugs are located different, gonna give it one last shot at fixing it today
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby huggiebear » December 16th, 2009, 10:36 pm

just an update, the car still has its issues... its had a new motor just before the conversion, new dash new loom, multiple computers.. i keep telling him its the timing but he wont listen.

ill be doing my car in a few weeks, i look forward to doing it this time. ea dial-up manifold FTW!!! (for those of you wondering what the hell a dial up manifold is... wel.. its not a broadband manifold :thumbsup:
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby falcon4life » February 7th, 2010, 9:19 pm

can you do bbm conversions too? im interested in one for my eb
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby huggiebear » February 7th, 2010, 9:30 pm

bbm is basically the same except you can still use the CPI heater pipes. quite easy to do compared to the dial-up (log) manifold
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby huggiebear » February 7th, 2010, 9:32 pm

oh i see in your thread your car is already mpfi, so all you have to do is swap heater pipes over with one from a EF/EL, and extent the TPS and ISC wires, change a few heater hoses, top part of the thermostat housing, and bolt it up, there us more to it if you want a working bbm switch, but there is plenty of threads about it
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby falcon4life » February 8th, 2010, 7:29 am

ok thanks ill take a look
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby jameslinton50 » July 18th, 2010, 12:51 pm

So can you use the cfi EB 1 loom and rig up bbm? or do you need to change to ED one
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby huggiebear » July 18th, 2010, 1:00 pm

you need to use a MPFI loom, there is too much involved in making up a loom to suit MPFI from a CFI loom.

the reason you use a EA EB or ED manifold loom is that it plugs straight into the CPI bodyloom. where as EF and EL use completely different plugs.
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby jameslinton50 » July 18th, 2010, 1:41 pm

Oh ok well the manifold loom im using is off a ea witch had the bbm conversion done it, plugs straight into my eb1 loom but the car wont start it just turns over, im getting spark but im not 100% that im getting fuel, i changed the fuel pump this morning to a el one what other wires need to be changed...All the tps wires and such match up.

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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby huggiebear » July 18th, 2010, 2:29 pm

dizzy, the CFI and MPFI are different. also if you have the pink wire it MUST be plugged in otherwise you wont get spark.

tho about the dizzy i have heard some people didnt need to change it.
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby jameslinton50 » July 18th, 2010, 3:34 pm

oh ok well im gonna try using the Mpfi loom off my other ea then and then i should be in business thanks for your help :grin: :drinks2:
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby jameslinton50 » October 16th, 2010, 11:13 am

Hey the cars running but im not getting 4th gear, it drives fine in the other gears any ideas??
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby stevotas23 » November 25th, 2012, 1:20 pm

How do you connect the kickdown cable??
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Re: CFI to MPFI Tutorial Version 1.0

Postby Sunboost » November 25th, 2012, 3:39 pm

You need a longer one from an MPI 3 speed. Hectic bump.
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