Need opinions on boosting.

[TheMonty]

Hey guys.
A lot of you will know me off AFF under the same user name, The Monty.
I want to boost my car, but I need input from people who have done it, and have experience doing it.
Firstly, Ill lay out my set up at the moment, followed by what Im looking for, and what Im expecting.

Set up:
Surecam cam .535 lift, 218@.050 duration, lobe seperation is 112deg.
Crow Cams vernier gear
JMM valve springs
JMM spring retainers
Headsense ported head
Pacie comp headers modified to not taper to 2.5 inches.
100cpsi Ballistic 4 inch cat
3 inch cat back
3 inch mandrel intake
Tickford CAI
KandN XStream pod filter
3.9 LSD diff
2500rpm stall converter
Chiptorque custom tune
9mm QLD ignition plug leads
GSS341 Walbro pump
154kw 410nm
14.6 @ 95.88mph

Ok, so problems with my set up that I know about are:
The LSD is single spinning. After the record attempt at Willowbank trying to break the record of most cars doing donuts at the same time, I broke the power steering pump pulley, spat off the serpentine belt, cooked the car (heads fine, gasket is fine), cracked the radiator, broke my extension housing and bent my tailshaft. All up damage was around $1400. Plus the LSD is dead.
Thats all fixed though, bar the LSD.
The stall is too low for the cam. Cam makes peak torque at 3500rpm.
I think the ported head is no good. It lost 10rwkw after a tune on the last car it was on, and dropped .5 second on the same car down the 1/4 mile.

Rev limiter is set at 6200rpm, which I would like to bring back down to 5500rpm odd, so Im not revving its boobies off when I get into it.

If I change the head, I would rather just get a complete AU HP engine and do a swap.

I will change the cam if I need to when it gets boosted.

I want to put in a LOKKA to fix the LSD problem.

I have access to a built auto with 2800 stall in it if I boost it.

Cam is currently at 0 degrees, I advanced it a few times, and it seriously done nothing.

Head has 12 thou off it, and I run an E series gasket (dont ask).

So thats the car.
I need more power, everyone here knows how it is, and I want to get some boostage happening. Im not looking at huge power, but 200 plus would have to be a minimum, or else it would not be worth it.
I want it to run on the combo I have, or will change to as outlined before.
I want it to last. I do a lot of K's, 90% on the highway though.
I dont have a preference over s/c or turbo.
My thoughts were either the raptor kit with 12psi pulley and W2A intercooler, or;
Stage 2 turbo kit from snort, but if possible use an FG xr6t turbo, or;
The M112 kit.

What are peoples thoughts on this, what would be your choice, and what else would I need to change in my combo to get it going good?

Thanks guys.

Josh

[ed40]

I would go the new snort m112 kit mate combined with an aftermarket ecu to make the most of it.
You have all the n/a goods, keep them and make use of them!

I didnt know raptor made turbo kits?

[TheMonty]

They dont, I meant the normal raptor V kit, but with the 12psi pulley and w2a intercooler Tim was apparently working on.
The car gets tuned with a Flash tuner at the moment.

Edit: I see what you meant, lol. I meant the stage 2 SNORT kit. My bad.

[vegabass]

Buy my powerdyne, it has made 200rwkw with a high stalled auto.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14084

[TheMonty]

I saw that Vegabass. My concern is if I go s/c, what happens when I want more?

[justa6]

ha monty good to see you on here. have a good look through the in the build thread. heap's of car's with snort kit's. dan has just put a whipple on from snort that is proving easy to install and producing good power. the stage3 snort kit would give a bit more room for more in the future.

[TheMonty]

Ok, so stage 3 instead of 2.
So is there a complete list of parts somewhere that I need on top of a snort kit? I want to know EVERY part I will need. I have injectors, flash box, 3 inch exhaust, boost and AFR gauge already (when I was previously going to turbo my old car).

[justa6]

i have not bought a snort kit myself, though by the sound's of it i think you just about have everything covered. i see you have a walbro, what do they flow? maybe put an 044 inline aswell, you can never have enough fuel. auto cooler.

[iceman]

stage 2 kit can be fitted to stock engine running low boost however they can support 300+rwkw

the new stage 2 turbocharger is fitted with gt4088 comp wheel

with your above list you will require intercooler pipework fuel pump ( bosch 023 ) fit and tune

[TheMonty]

You dont think the GSS341 will flow enough?
Other then that, come on tax time!

The Walbro flows 550hp, and I already have a big PWR trans cooler.
Adjustable shift kit as well maybe?

[iceman]

you can run with the walbro but we have had problems with them in the past , they dont like to run high pressure but when fitted to correct size injectors should be fine

[TheMonty]

Ok, cool.
Would you suggest w2a over front mount?

And what diff gears do you guys run? Leave in the 3.9's or go back to 3.08's?
Leave the stall as well?

[iceman]

the kits are supplied with front mount intercoolers just not the pipework

w2a works great also but can be expensive/complicated to setup

leave the stall and ditch the cam ( if needed ) stock cams work fine with turbo

keep it simple where possible and cost effective

[67rce]

Ok, cool.
Would you suggest w2a over front mount?

And what diff gears do you guys run? Leave in the 3.9's or go back to 3.08's?
Leave the stall as well?

3.08's will be wrong too, IMHO, middle ground, in 3.45's would be the best. W2A will shorten the inlet tract, and increase response, also doesn't give the hand away. On the other hand, A2A is alot lighter.

Be careful with the AU bottom end though Josh, they are fairly weak. A decent serving of boost will see it throw a leg out of bed on stock internals.

[TheMonty]

Thanks for all your help guys.
Still open to lots more ideas. ATM it looks like this setup:
Cam out, stock cam in.
Stage 2 snort turbo kit.
Frount mount (is supplied of course with kit)
Leave diff gears and stall.
Find some people to help install it for a payment of wagyu beef BBQ and beverages.
Take it and get it tuned.

[67rce]

When it comes time to doing it Josh, let me know, I'll give you a hand. I'll probably be able to get Ken (Narooma Blue BA XT) to come around aswell. If you decide 3.9's are wrong with boost, I have a set of 3.45's sitting around you can have for cheap. I'd lean towards the stage 3 Snort kit with the better turbo and external gate too.

[TheMonty]

okie Dokie, Ill keep it all in mind, thanks heaps.

[Rollin]

3.9s with an auto will be fine IMHO, and the stall speed of your converter will most likely rise a few hundred rpm by itself once you put the turbo on.

A locker will be awesome.

What bottom end do you have now? (I got banned from AFF a few years back, have since gotten a new IP so I could sneak in again if I chose, but they can get fucked) If you are going to put another in I'd just get a stock ED/EL motor with one (ED) or two (EL) AU head gaskets and boost it, sell the head and cam on ebay. Keep your valve springs though.

Get a proper computer (Haltech or something) an 044 inline and a set of 60 pound injectors, and a proper shift kit from MV automatics and you'll be set for 400rwhp if you have a turbo that can support it

[TheMonty]

Thanks for the info Rollin. I didnt really want 300kw, Id be happier with a bit lower than that.

I have a stock AU bottom end at the moment.

Ill keep it all in mind, might be able to pick some stuff up and do it that way eventually anyway.