Boosted Falcon

Parfrey wrote:lol at all the hating!
Looks ok dude.. i dont really like holdens but atleast the driveline is ok.

how do the 5l's respond to mods like do they have crappy heads/manifold like eseries?
i'll have to come out for a cruise some time

its a stock motor with pacies cats twin 2.5" and injectors.... and it goes pretty fuckin good for 4 psi i say... so i guess they respond ok? i havent looked into it much yet

4psi? how much is the blower good for? 10psi+ you know you want to!

Why only 4psi?

you would think that they would want more then 4psi for the effort of installing all that?

3.15 pulley and cooler, plus 304s flow good = 4psi.

meh im not fussed really it goes good and sounds good so its staying at 4psi... i dont want to have to replace the motor...

had it on the hoist today... new list of parts to buy
pedders superlow ish height springs (get rid of chopped king supers)
pedders sportsryder shocks
new diff 3.45/3.7 lsd
new top trailing arms (the nolothane box tube ones) cos the brand new looking roadsafe ones in there atm have shredded already... and look less than 5000km old at the most...

so im walking to work till i source some parts at the right prices etc...

holden v8 "vn" heads are fucken awesome compared to e7s, shit all over ford heads.

700 horse flow rate is acheivable out of vn heads, seriously doubt even gt40s could flow that much

josh_ef wrote:holden v8 "vn" heads are fucken awesome compared to e7s, shit all over ford heads.

700 horse flow rate is acheivable out of vn heads, seriously doubt even gt40s could flow that much

these are vs clubby heads.. and i always thought it was just the VN GROUP A heads which were the hectic siknt heads not just regular vn heads?

so much hate hahah. i hate vns as a rule but each to there own hey?

on a side note how do you know its a clubby motor? like any thing to look for to tell? cos clubby's had a different engine cover...

STOWLN and TUFCAB (LS1PWR) are both mint examples of VNs, pity there arent more of them built like that....

Steady wrote:3.15 pulley and cooler, plus 304s flow good = 4psi.

Forgot about the cooler! And I assumed the intake would've been restrictive despite the 304/clubby/whatever heads... So restrictive heads are worse than a restrictive manifold? I thought the bananas were pretty much like HOs, torquey & asthmatic.

4psi for the win in this case then, so much more can be had with a pulley swap & tune!

Nikk O'lass wrote:

+1 for hotness...

^^^^agreed.

call vn-vs heads are exactly the same, clubbys and senators have different injectors and different ecus but same heads and same valve train

im pretty sure group group a had standard vn heads, they did have the twin throttle body set up different cam things like that

ah ok cool learn something new every day

im a bit lazy.. buuut new axle should be going in tomorrow haha... im also a tight ass... just gonna put an axle in it for now, CBF changing the diff over just yet

Just get good at changing them and leave the spool in.

Still no driveby skids heard

the standard manifold n/a is good for 180-190 max
change to a carby style manifold and a 1000cfm quad t/b and the 5l will do 220rwkw without being too angry.
add boost though and the bananas are good for 9s in a boosted 8 if run in a well setup car.

10psi is pretty much the safe limit of the engine if you want to thrash it, pretty sure the head gaskets will be the first to give, all depends on how much timing is being run with the boost.

i say get a pully to run 9-10 psi and retune
although the T5 would shit bricks lol

Nikk O'lass wrote:

Thats hot. VN & VP's done up right and nothing over the top = Awesomeness!

first chance to work on it....

new diff coming soon lol...

lol **** you did alright there!

end exploded. its semi welded in, the other end of the axle has worn through the spool end too, and the RH axle has a fair twist through the splines...

so yeah new diff going in, and after the car is rwc and in my name etc i might think about putting in another spool with 31 spline axles etc etc...

best option, but expensive option

full spull and 31 spline axles, i got qouted around $1200 for my ed, so be similar for a bomb on door

i would say the spool is still intact there pretty hard to break but its a pain in the ass pulling centre out to knock the broken piece out.

cheaper option is keep ya 28 spline axles and mini spool, get a white magic marker or soemthing, draw a straight line down ya axle before ya put them in, and every 2/3 months or depensing how much ya drive it, pull them out and see how twisted the line is, if its around a semi circle bin it and change the axle before it breaks.

seems like a pain in the ass tho...would it not be worth the money for something a bit more permanent??
itd generally cost more replacing the 28 spline axles more often than you would be replacing the 31 anyway wouldnt it?

nah man
axles from the wreckers are cheap as ****

edit - $30 to be exact lol

id rather just put anything thats cheap and quiet in it for now... its not a race car and wont be thrashed much on the road... its all about the noise not the speed with this car lol...

You bought a windsor?

lol...
buying a boosted holden V8 isn't the right choice for something you dont want to thrash on the street

misk wrote:nah man
axles from the wreckers are cheap as ****

edit - $30 to be exact lol

ah k fair enough.

dylby1 wrote:

misk wrote:nah man
axles from the wreckers are cheap as ****

edit - $30 to be exact lol

ah k fair enough.

your right in a sense dylby, 20 axles lates and ya have paid for 31 spline billet items, my mates xd had a modified ed v8 diff fitted (converted to leaf spring) with the intent to get 31 spline set up but for temp solution he had a 28 spline with spool and only went through abut 7 axles in 2 years of regular burnout competing and street cruising, he also got axle swapping down to a 20 minute job so he didnt both with 31 spline set up but it is a pain in the ass if your our crusing and snap an axle

for now im doing the same in my car, 28 spline with mini spool (as i have one sitting here) and when i can afford it 31 spline billets.

i would just bang an lsd in it for now or a single to get it through roadie and save up get the diff built properly, do it once do it right. you wont break billet items with your current engine set up.

im still surpised when i hear of people braking axles in setups that arent monsters (ie the 400rwkw these diffs seem to handle at the drags)
i would assume this car has had a fun life though lol

ya allways break them in skids, drag racing not so much, my mates xd did have 403 rwhp, whats that 280 killowatts ?

it did get trashed alot, easternats regular, 7 grand in top gear alot lol

lol 7 grand, im more surpised you didnt see a rod fly out the bonnet

it was a tough motor, 383 clevo stroker, forged internals 4v heads with a top loader

josh_ef wrote:

dylby1 wrote:

misk wrote:nah man
axles from the wreckers are cheap as ****

edit - $30 to be exact lol

ah k fair enough.

your right in a sense dylby, 20 axles lates and ya have paid for 31 spline billet items, my mates xd had a modified ed v8 diff fitted (converted to leaf spring) with the intent to get 31 spline set up but for temp solution he had a 28 spline with spool and only went through abut 7 axles in 2 years of regular burnout competing and street cruising, he also got axle swapping down to a 20 minute job so he didnt both with 31 spline set up but it is a pain in the ass if your our crusing and snap an axle

That was also my plan when I broke my first E-series axle. Mine shattered the bearing collar in the center and made me almost change lanes, which was fucking dangerous. It also killed the end of the diff where the bearing sits so the housing and center were fuct.

I put an AU diff in (which = SICK wheel fitment) but it seems AU axles are made out of chocolate. I was swapping them on a monthy basis (after every drift night or trip to willowbank, or even just thrashing it on the street) and it got old REALLY fast.

I doubt many others will have the same problem, but I'd suggest at least checking the axles periodically, maybe after a really big skid sesh or trip to the drags. Better to swap them when they start to twist rather then letting them snap and repairing the carnage.

well said rollin, i thought au axles would be same as eb in non irs?

yeah there easy to change and keep an

eye on them, like rollin said keep checking them and if ya do the line trick you know how bad they are getting.

that last pic is mint that half your lokka?

Rollin wrote:
I put an AU diff in (which = SICK wheel fitment)]

how much wider is an au diff compared to e series?

70 mm i think approx

roughly 35 per side

josh_ef wrote:70 mm i think approx

roughly 35 per side

cheers