oneredED wrote:Slightly offtopic Hiboost, but what is your affiliation with RAJAB racing? Is this like a Casper/JMM, BIGTIM/Snort, Rollin/Lokka, type deal? I'm just curious as to why you'd have the free plug in your signature?
Just for the record, I have recieved
absolutely nothing from having my car in the ads for 4wd systems.
Absolutely fucking nothing.I'm quite pissed about it because I'm fairly sure I put about 7k cashflow through their doors as a result of my infactuation with lokkas, and all they've done is use pics of my car in their ads. I've not even had an email asking if it was ok.
67rce wrote:Having watched your 10.7 clip, i don't rate a car that sits on the line for 5-10seconds spooling as a true 10 second car, as it has been said, different Dyno's give different figures, hell rollin made 430rwhp at hi power and 370rwhp at fat pipes on the same tune...
430 to 370 even after fitting a 60mm gate and modifying the exhaust to greatly improve flow no less.
As an aside and slightly more on topic I'm of the opinion that dyno temp sensors SHOULD be left hanging on the wall.
I had previously thought that sitting them in the engine bay was the way to go, but I have revised my thoughts on this.
If a car has a busted ass intake setup (like mine/most turbo cars) and the pod sucks bullshit hot air from directly behind the radiator, it will have less power than an identical car with a proper cold air intake.
In theory, if you dynoed that car with the two different intake setups and the intake sensor positioned to read actual intake temp, the one with the shit intake will read higher, even though it is actually making LESS power on the street/track!
Intake air temp should be the same as ambient temp, and none of this compensating for crap intake setup shit.